SVHNews - Smith Veterinary Hospital's Newsletter

Glucose comes from the diet. When an animal goes without food, the body must break down fat, stored starches, and protein to supply calories for the hungry cells. Proteins and starches may be converted into glucose. Fat, however, requires different processing which can lead to the production of ketones rather than glucose. Ketones are another type of fuel which the body can use in a pinch but the detection of ketones indicates that something very wrong is happening in the patient's metabolism. Ketones may be detected in the urine of starving animals as massive fat mobilization is required for ketone formation. Ketones can also be detected in diabetic ketoacidosis, a severe complication of unregulated diabetes so it is helpful to periodically monitor for ketones in a diabetic patient’s urine. The point, for now, is that body fat cannot be converted into glucose; in times of extreme fat burning (such as in starvation), ketones are a fat burning byproduct.

IN THE DIABETIC ANIMAL THERE ISN'T ENOUGH INSULIN WHICH MEANS:

* The cells cannot receive glucose from the blood because there is no insulin to permit it.

* The body is unable to detect the glucose present in the blood and is fooled into thinking starvation is occurring.

* Protein, starch, and fat break-down occurs as in starvation.

Yet, all along there has been plenty of glucose in the blood. In fact, by now, there is a large excess of glucose in the blood as all resources have been mobilized. Still, without insulin, this bounty of fuel cannot get to the tissues that need it.

The normal kidney is able to prevent glucose loss in urine. In the diabetic animal, there is so much glucose in the blood that the kidney is overwhelmed and glucose spills into the urine and is lost. Glucose is able to draw water with it into the urine. This leads to excess urine production and excess thirst to keep up with the fluid loss in excess urine production.

Levels of sugar in the brain control appetite. Without insulin, the brain becomes sugar deprived and the animal is constantly hungry, yet they may lose weight due to improper use of nutrients from the diet.

THUS THE MAIN CLINICAL SIGNS OF DIABETES MELLITUS ARE:

* Excessive eating

* Excessive drinking

* Excessive urination

* Weight loss

DIAGNOSING DIABETES
The diagnosis of diabetes is made by finding a large increase in blood sugar and a large amount of sugar in the urine. Animals, especially cats, stressed by having a blood sample drawn, can have a temporary increase in blood sugar, but there is no sugar in the urine. A blood screen of other organs is obtained to look for changes in the liver, kidney and pancreas. A urine sample may be cultured to look for infection of the kidneys or bladder. Diabetic patients with ketoacidosis may have an elevation of waste products that are normally removed by the kidneys.

It is usually fairly clear from the history and tests showing dramatic glucose elevations in the blood (and usually the presence of glucose in the urine, too) that diabetes mellitus is the diagnosis. Some pets are able to substantially raise their blood sugars from stress (such as might occur when a sensitive, sick, and anxious patient goes the vet’s office). This could create misleading test results. If there is any question about the diagnosis, a test called a fructosamine level may be requested. This test reflects an average blood glucose level over the past several weeks so if this is also elevated, a one time elevated glucose can be distinguished from the persistant elevations of true diabetes mellitus. The fructosamine test is also used in monitoring therapy for diabetes mellitus.

Note, in the dog, sugars can enter the lens of the eye causing rapid cataract formation. Because the lens of the cat is different, this phenomenon occurs only in dogs.

Another common symptom of diabetes mellitus is urinary tract infection. All the sugar in the urine makes the bladder an excellent incubator for bacteria. Antibiotics are necessary to clear up such an infection when it occurs and some monitoring may be needed to help detect these infections.

WHO IS AT RISK FOR GETTING DIABETES?
Diabetes most commonly occurs in middle age to older dogs and cats, but occasionally occurs in young animals. When diabetes occurs in young animals, it is often genetic and may occur in related animals. Diabetes mellitus occurs more commonly in female dogs and in male cats.

Certain conditions predispose a dog or cat to developing diabetes. Animals that are overweight or those with inflammation of the pancreas are predisposed to developing diabetes. Some drugs can interfere with insulin, leading to diabetes. Glucocorticoids, which are cortisone-type drugs, and hormones used for heat control are drugs that are most likely to cause diabetes. These are commonly used drugs and only a small percentage of animals receiving these drugs develop diabetes after long term use.

TREATING THE DIABETIC PATIENT
Diabetes is managed long term by the injection of insulin by the owner once or twice a day. Some diabetic cats can be treated with oral medications instead of insulin injections, but the oral medications are rarely effective in the dog.

Insulin comes from different sources including beef or pork pancreas and a human genetically engineered form called Humulin. The availability of animal-source insulins continues to decline.

In general, cats and small dogs need insulin injections more frequently, usually twice daily, compared to large breed dogs that may only require one dose of insulin daily. The action of insulin varies in each individual and some large dogs will need 2 insulin shots daily. The insulin needs of the individual animal are determined by collecting small amounts of blood for glucose (sugar) levels every 1-2 hours for 12-24 hours. This is called an insulin-glucose-response curve. When insulin treatment is first begun, it is often necessary to perform several insulin-glucose-response curves to determine:

* which insulin type to use

* how much insulin to give

* how often to give insulin

* when is the best time to feed the animal

The animal's insulin needs may change over time requiring a change in insulin type or frequency of injection. Insulin- glucose- response curves are usually performed several days after a change in insulin is made.

Before you give insulin injections to your pet, your veterinarian will show you how to:

* handle insulin

* use a syringe

* draw insulin from the bottle in the correct amount

* give your pet the insulin shot

Insulin is fragile and will become less effective or even inactive, if it gets too hot or cold, or is shaken vigorously. Pay attention to the expiration date on the bottle. Discard insulin that is outdated.

You may be able to practice using water and giving the "shot" to an object such as a piece of fruit until you are comfortable using needles, syringes and drawing accurate amounts of fluid into a syringe.

TYPE I AND TYPE II DIABETES MELLITUS?
Diabetes mellitus is a classical disease in humans and most of us have heard some of the terms used in its description. In humans, diabetes is broken down into two forms: Type I and Type II. These are also referred to as "juvenile onset" and "adult onset" diabetes or "insulin dependent" and "non-insulin dependent” diabetes. In short, type 1 is the type where the pancreas produces no insulin at all, and type 2 is the type where the pancreas produces some insulin but not enough. Virtually all dogs have "insulin dependent diabetes" and must be treated with insulin. Most cats have "non-insulin dependent diabetes." This might suggest that most cats can get away without insulin injections but that is not the case at all. Instead, for cats, there is potential for the diabetes to actually resolve if the pancreas improves its insulin-secreting ability. Insulin injections are needed to treat most diabetic cats but for some cats, the situation is mild enough for oral medication to suffice. Good glucose control and proper diet can resolve the diabetes in some lucky cats but virtually never in diabetic dogs.

WHEN TO RETURN TO THE HOSPITAL/WHAT TO WATCH FOR:
Your pet will probably require re-regulation at some point. During re-regulation periods, expect a curve to be run a week or two after each adjustment in insulin dose. Bring your pet in for a re-check exam and glucose curve if you note any of the following:

* the pet seems to feel ill.

* the pet is losing weight.

* the pet has a ravenous appetite or loses its appetite.

* the pet seems to be drinking or urinating excessively.

* the pet becomes disoriented or groggy.

* the presence of ketones in the urine for three days in a row.

It is important for diabetic pets to have their teeth cleaned annually. Dental tartar seeds the body with bacteria and when blood sugar levels run high, infections in important organs can take root. The kidneys are particularly vulnerable.

INSULIN SHOCK
If your pet appears wobbly or drunken, his/her blood sugar level may have dropped too low. This occurs after an insulin overdose. First try to get your pet to eat. If the pet will not eat, administer light Karo syrup at a dose of one tablespoon per 5 pounds. If no improvement occurs, immediately see your veterinarian for emergency treatment. When your pet is more stable, a glucose curve will be needed to determine a more appropriate insulin dose).

SOME PETS ARE DIFFICULT TO REGULATE
* Some pets seem to require re-regulation frequently. There may be an underlying reason to sort out. Here are some possibilities should your pet seem to fit in this category:
Improper administration of insulin. If possible, have your doctor observe you giving the insulin to your pet. Your insulin may be out of date.

* Rapid insulin metabolism. Insulin wears off quickly in some animals. Your pet may require a different type of insulin or a second injection during the day.

* Insulin overdose may actually lead to elevated glucose levels (and clinical signs of diabetes mellitus) at the end of the day. In these cases, excess drinking, eating, or urinating are seen in the afternoon and evening but not in the morning.

* Steroid administration (such as prednisone, prednisolone etc.) will interfere with insulin.

* Progesterone, a female hormone, also interferes with insulin. Unspayed female diabetics should be spayed once they are sufficiently regulated.

FEEDING THE DIABETIC PET
Regulation is achieved via a balance of diet, excercise, and insulin. Realizing that special diets are not always attractive to pets, there are some ideal foods which should at least be offered.

The most up-to-date choice for cats is a low carbohydrate high protein diet such as Hill’s M/D diet or Purina’s CNM-DM diet. These diets promote weight loss in obese diabetics and are available in both canned and dry formulations. For dogs, high fiber diets are still in favor as fiber seems to help sensitize the pet to insulin.

One should avoid soft-moist diets as sugars are used to preserve them. Breads and sweet treats should be avoided. If it is not possible to change the pet’s diet, then regulation will just have to be worked out around whatever the pet will eat.

DIABETES Q&A:

How common is diabetes in dogs and cats?
Diabetes usually affects less than 1% of dogs and cats. But experts believe that it is on the rise.

Is diabetes in my pet the same as diabetes in people?
The two conditions are very similar. In fact, your veterinarian will be using medication, equipment, and monitoring systems that are similar to those used for diabetic people.

Can diabetes lead to other health problems?
Yes. Dogs and cats with diabetes can develop other health problems, usually after living with diabetes for a year or more. For dogs, a common complication of diabetes is cataract formation. Persistently high blood glucose levels can make the lens of the eye opaque, causing blindness. For cats, weakness of the hind legs is a common complication. Persistently high blood glucose levels may damage nerves, causing weakness and muscle wasting. For both dogs and cats, controlling high blood glucose levels can lead to healthier outcomes. For this reason, early diagnosis of diabetes in your dog or cat is important.

Will diabetes affect my dog or cat’s life expectancy?
Today, with effective treatment and monitoring, a diabetic dog or cat should have the same life expectancy as a non-diabetic dog or cat of the same age. Early diagnosis and appropriate treatment helps diabetic pets maintain a good quality of life.

Is my dog or cat at risk for diabetes?
While diabetes has been diagnosed in dogs and cats of all ages, genders, and breeds, certain pets are at greater risk for the disease.

Risk factors in dogs
• Age (middle-aged to older dogs are more affected)
• Unspayed females
• Genetics
• Obesity
• Breed—these breeds have a higher risk for developing diabetes: – Cocker Spaniels – Dachshunds – Doberman Pinschers – German Shepherds – Golden Retrievers – Labrador Retrievers – Pomeranians – Terriers – Toy Poodles

Risk factors in cats
• Age (older cats are more susceptible)
• Neutered males
• Genetics
• Other insulin-resistant disorders or diseases, such as chronic pancreatitis (inflammation of the pancreas) or hyperthyroidism (overproduction of thyroid hormones)
• Obesity
• Physical inactivity
• Indoor lifestyle

Are there warning signs I should be aware of?
Some common signs of diabetes in dogs and cats include:
• Excessive thirst
• Excessive urination—your pet produces more urine per day or has “accidents” in the house (dogs) or outside the litterbox
(cats)
• Excessive hunger while losing weight
• Lethargy (less active/sleeps more)
• Cloudy eyes (dogs)
• Doesn’t groom (cats)
• Thinning, dry, and dull hair

How will my veterinarian test my pet for diabetes?
Your veterinarian may begin by performing a general health examination and asking questions about any signs your pet may be displaying. Then, a sample of your pet’s urine will be tested for the presence of glucose (a type of sugar) or ketones (acids produced by the body as it breaks down fat instead of glucose for energy). If glucose is present in your pet’s urine, your veterinarian will then test your pet’s blood to determine the blood glucose level. A diabetes diagnosis is considered definite when persistently high glucose levels are found in both the blood and urine.

How do I take care of a pet with diabetes?
Although there is no cure for diabetes, the disease can be successfully managed with the help of your veterinarian.

* Daily insulin injections are usually required to restore a pet’s insulin level and control blood glucose levels. Many owners are anxious about giving injections, but it’s easier than you think, and you can quickly learn how to handle the dosing routine with little stress for you or your pet. Diet plays a vital role in helping to keep your pet’s diabetes regulated. Your veterinarian can recommend a diet that’s best suited to the needs of your pet. A high-quality, consistent source of protein is an essential part of any diabetic diet.

* High-protein, low-carbohydrate foods are currently recommended for diabetic cats because they provide the extra energy cats need to get through their active days, without the extra carbs that can turn into excess sugar. It is important to feed your pet based on its ideal body weight. Consistent timing and size of meals is also very important. Exercise can help dogs with diabetes, but it needs to be regulated because activity affects blood glucose levels. It’s best to create a consistent exercise routine for your diabetic dog and stick to it. (There is no clear recommendation for exercise in diabetic cats because their activity is difficult to regulate.)

* Regular veterinary checkups can help identify changes in your pet’s condition and help you to manage this disease successfully over time. Managing your dog or cat’s diabetes will require some effort, but the rewards are well worth it. Pets whose diabetes is under control have normal thirst, appetite, urination, and activity levels. Their weight is generally stable and they are less likely to develop complications.

Summertime’s warm weather means that dogs get to spend more time playing outside. A great majority of dogs love to swim at the cottage and explore the different smells the environment has to offer. Summertime also means that local wildlife, such as raccoons and skunks, are out and about looking for food and raising their families. Unfortunately, as harmless as most of these critters are, they often carry many infectious organisms transmissible to other animals and humans. One of these organisms has recently re-emerged in the companion animal world, an agent that causes the disease known as Leptospirosis.

WHAT IS LEPTOSPIROSIS?

HOW IS LEPTOSPIROSIS TRANSMITTED?
The bacterium survives best in warm, moist weather, and as a result, Leptospirosis is most commonly diagnosed in the spring and autumn. The organism is shed in the urine of infected animals and can survive in the environment, under ideal conditions, for up to six weeks. Dogs may become infected by contact with contaminated water bowls, puddles and streams, wet grass, soil, or food.

Infection requires only ingestion of the bacterium or contact with mucous membranes such as the gums or nose. It has been reported that the incidence of infection is highest in large-breed dogs, such as Retrievers, Shepherds, mixed breeds, and working dogs. This, however, is likely related to the amount of time the dog spends outdoors, since larger breeds tend to enjoy activities such as swimming a little more than smaller breeds. Infection can occur in both suburban and rural areas, with a higher incidence reported in suburban locations.

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF LEPTOSPIROSIS INFECTION?
The majority of Leptospirosis infections in dogs are subclinical, meaning no obvious symptoms of illness are present. These infections go unnoticed and the dog may exhibit no more than some “flu” symptoms for one or two days.

More serious infections, however, are not uncommon and aggressive treatment is necessary. Animals may not show signs of disease for several weeks after infection with the bacterium. The organism causes damage to the blood vessels, especially in the kidney and liver. When serious, kidney failure and severe liver disease can occur.

The dog may show non-specific signs of disease, such as vomiting, dehydration, fever, loss of appetite, or sudden collapse. The mucous membranes may develop a yellow tinge (indicating liver disease) and the dog’s water intake may suddenly increase (and subsequently urination). Permanent organ failure and even death can result if the disease goes untreated. In general, the earlier the disease is diagnosed and treatment started, the better the prognosis for preserving organ function.

HEMORRHAGIC VS. RENAL VS. ICTERIC
There are three main forms of the Leptospirosis: hemorrhagic (infection in the blood, causing bleeding), renal (infecting the kidneys), and icteric (infecting the liver).

Hemorrhagic Leptospirosis tends to start with a high fever, loss of appetite, and general lethargy. Small hemorrhages start to occur in the mouth and eyes and the dog may develop extreme bloody vomiting and diarrhea. This form of the disease is often fatal.

Icteric Leptospirosis will often start the same way as the hemorrhagic form; with fever, lethargy, and loss of appetite. The mouth and whites of the eyes will take on a yellow appearance, similar to victims of jaundice. In some cases the dog's skin may also appear yellow and jaundiced.

Renal Leptospirosis also starts with fever, appetite loss, and lethargic depression, but eventually leads to kidney failure.

All three forms of the disease are treatable and curable and all three forms can be potentially fatal. Often dogs that survive renal Leptospirosis will have chronic kidney disease for the rest of their lives.

DIAGNOSING LEPTOSPIROSIS
Diagnosis of the infection is not always easy and can require several consecutive blood tests for confirmation. Your veterinarian will check for blood abnormalities and signs of organ dysfunction, paying particular attention to the liver and kidneys.

A specific screen for antibodies against the Leptospira serovars will also be done, which appear in the blood seven to ten days after infection and continue to rise for a little while afterwards. While waiting for the test results, your veterinarian may begin treatment after making a presumptive diagnosis based or your dog’s history and symptoms.

As Leptospirosis can result in kidney failure and severe liver disease, immediate and aggressive treatment with intravenous fluids and a long course of antibiotics is required. A lengthy stay in the hospital may be necessary until the dog is stable enough to maintain adequate hydration on its own. The antibiotics used are quite effective if a dog is treated early on in the infection, with a good chance of recovery if no organ damage has occurred.

Finally, it should be noted that Leptospirosis is zoonotic, meaning that it can be transmitted to humans. This can occur through contamination of the environment or via an infected dog shedding the organism. It is considered rare, however, for a human to acquire the disease from an infected dog, and is usually related to occupational hazard (such as veterinarians and wildlife rehabilitators).

In humans, most cases are mild and some may even go unnoticed. Rarely, an infected person may experience severe disease with symptoms such as sudden fever and chills, severe headache, vomiting, muscle pains, and/or abdominal pain. If left untreated, meningitis, kidney failure, and liver disease can develop, much like in dogs. Sanitation is likely the most effective way to prevent transmission from an infected dog to human, with protective clothing, frequent hand washing, and disinfection of possibly contaminated surfaces.

IS MY DOG AT RISK & WHAT CAN I DO ABOUT IT?
Since climate change results in warmer temperatures and infection with Leptospira can be so devastating, vaccination of dogs at risk is highly recommended. There is now a widely used vaccine for the most important Leptospira serovars, and its efficacy has been reported to be quite good. The vaccine provides one year of protection, and dogs are boostered annually along with their other vaccines. Rodent and wildlife control in the area is also important to keep the risk of infection low. It is difficult and not practical to keep a dog from swimming, but it is recommended that standing water be removed and that the dog’s water and food bowl not be left outside. With all the preventative measures in place, you can be sure that your dog’s risk of infection will be low and that you are doing the best you can to prevent Leptospirosis

BAILEY GOODMAN

It's the picture of contentment . . . your favorite furry four-legged companion, curled up on the floor in a patch of warm sunlight, snoozing with a belly full of the table scraps left over from last night's dinner. Oh yes, your fuzzy feline or pudgy pooch might be content. But is he or she healthy? Not likely! Ensuring your pet's health goes beyond resisting the sad eyes and whimpers that plead for leftovers. Ignoring the content of your pet's food and the need for exercise can lead to dangerous health habits that may haunt both you and your pet in the future.

Luckily, new research into the role of fat in your pet's body is helping pet owners everywhere get their furry friends on the path to a healthy lifestyle!

FAT: MERE NUISANCE OR CRITICAL ENDOCRINE ORGAN?
When talking about weight control and obesity, it is important to first define what it is we're talking about. That is: what, exactly, is fat?

In the past, fat (also knowns as adipose tissue) was seen merely as a means for energy storage, thermal insulation and structural support for some organs. But new research has uncovered some fascinating evidence proving that fat is, infact, metabolically active and constitutes the largest endocrine organ in the body with unlimited growth potential at any stage of life!

Recognizing that fat/adipose tissue is not inert has helped to further our understanding of the complex relationship between obesity and some of the diseases associated with obesity (i.e., heart disease, diabetes and chronic degenerative joint disease).

FINDING THE LINK
Studying the relationship between obesity and other types of diseases, such as diabetes and heart disease, is no easy feat. In essence, the link is a group of proteins, collectively called adipokines, which are secreted by fat/adipose tissue and other neighbouring cells. These proteins exert their effects in the central nervous system and in tissues such as skeletal muscle and the liver. There are several proteins that are of interest to researchers, but the main spotlight is clearly focused on Leptin.

Leptin, one of the adipokine proteins secreted by fat/adipose tissue has been identified as the mediator between fat cells and the brain. In other words, fat/adipose tissue releases leptin which then tells the brain whether or not the pet is still hungry. Interestingly, studies in humans has uncovered a definite link between increased Leptin levels in the fluid around joints and rheumatoid arthritis or osteoarthritis!

MY PET IS JUST A LITTLE PUDGY - IS THAT SUCH A BIG DEAL?
Yes! Carrying around extra weight is as big of a deal for your pet as it is for you -- minus the impending swimsuit season, of course! In fact, experts say that up to 60 percent of all adult dogs and cats are overweight or likely to get that way due to age or activity level.

You might think that a couple of extra pounds on your pup or kitty isn't a big deal, but you'd be wrong.

An extra five pounds on a dog that should weigh 17 pounds is similar to an extra 50 pounds on a person who should weigh 170 pounds.

Obesity is associated with heart and respiratory problems, diabetes, skeletal stress, and gastrointestinal disorders in pets.

HOW DO OUR PETS GET SO BIG?
Often our pets get a little pudgy because we love them so much. We love them, so we share our food with them. We love them, so we feed them whenever they look hungry. We love them, so we give them snacks or treats throughout the day. These nice but dangerous feeding habits can lead to extra pounds on your pet.

Weight problems can also go hand-in-hand with inactive lifestyles. Animals carrying a heavy load have an increased likelihood of tearing ligaments and wearing down joints. When their joints become damaged and painful, animals don't want to exercise, which then adds to their weight problems. This is especially a problem with older dogs.

GENES AND OBESITY
As mentioned earlier, the relationship between obesity and other diseases is complicated and has only recently begun receiving recognition as a key factor affecting overall health. New research tools such as genomics (the study of DNA) have enable scientists to better understand the mechanisms by which obesity is linked to other diseases.

When scientists compared lean tissue vs. obese fat tissue, they found that the genes expressed by the obese tissue differed significantly from that of the lean tissue. In otherwords, obese pets are genetically different than lean pets!

Research on the effect of weight loss has shown that putting the pet on a diet can turn off and on these fat genes effectively changing how the fat cells communicate with the body!

WHAT CAN I DO TO HELP MY CHUBBY PET?
Just like in people, balanced nutrition and exercise are the key to maintaining proper weight and optimal health. Feeding your pet an appropriate weight control diet is an excellent first step in getting him or her on the road to good health. Getting your furry little friend moving is another important factor -- whether it's playing in the house or running around the yard or going for longer walks, exercise is good for both of you!!

MAKE REGULAR WEIGH-INS A MONTHLY HABIT!
The key to success for your pet’s weight loss program is regular weigh-ins with your veterinary team. Each pet is unique and your veterinary team is prepared to coach you on the adjustments that may be required to keep your pet on track to successful weight loss.

Your pet’s weight will be recorded at each visit to see if there are any changes required to the daily feeding or exercise schedule. Each weigh-in is an opportunity to discuss the progress of your pet’s weight loss and to address your specific questions or concerns. Your veterinary team will have a number of helpful hints and additional resources to assist you.

In some instances, your pet may reach a “plateau” and may not lose any weight over a period of time. It is important to catch this early and to make minor adjustments to your pet’s program to resume the weight loss. If your pet continues to successfully lose weight - it’s time to celebrate with everyone in the veterinary clinic.

GIVE YOURSELF A BIG THUMBS UP!
By helping your pet lose those extra pounds, you are also helping your pet live a healthier life. You may notice one or more of the following changes in your pet:

·Breathe easier at rest and/or with exercise

·Has the ability to better control body temperature - the extra weight interferes with the ability to pant

·Is more active and interested in playing with you

·Experiences less pain associated with an arthritic of degenerative disc condition

·Is able to play for longer periods of time

·Has a healthier hair coat - as weight is lost, pets are better able to groom themselves

LOWER THE RISK
Helping your pet beat the ‘Battle of the Bulge’ will also reduce his or her risk of a number of health concerns such as:

·Diabetes

·Urinary tract disease

·Skin infections - from pressure sores or frictional rubbing of the skin

·Certain forms of bladder cancer (in dogs)

·Liver disease (in cats)

SETTING YOURSELF UP FOR SUCCESS - TIPS TO 'WEIGHT PROOF' YOUR HOME
There are all sorts of hidden sources of calories waiting for your pet in your house!

To achieve success with this weight loss program, it is important to follow the feeding schedule prepared specifically for your pet by your veterinary team and to account for any additional sources of calories.

Us the following tips to help you keep your home diet friendly:

·Use the measuring cup provided by your clinic and accurately measure each meal

·Keep the food bowls of other pets out of reach

·Keep the food bowls of children out of reach

·Ensure that garbage can lids and cupboard doors are securely closed

·Remove your pet from the kitchen during meal preparation and meal times to avoid offering table treats

·If several people in the household enjoy feeding your pet, ensure that the total amount fed per day does not exceed the allowable daily calorie intake. This can be done by placing the total daily amount of dry diet into a separate container or clearly marking the cans/pouches that are to be fed in the day. Everyone is instructed to only feed from this food allowance.

·Alerts relatives, neighbors and friends that your pet is on a weight loss program. If necessary, provide a limited quantity of an appropriate treat for them to offer your pet.

TROUBLESHOOTING - WHAT TO DO WHEN YOUR PET BEGS FOR FOOD
We agree that helping your pet lose weight can be frustrating at times. We also know that it is very rewarding to see your hard work pay off, as your dog strolls down the street with you more easily or your cat bounces up the stairs to greet you.

Begging or crying for food is commonly encountered when trying to help your pet lose weight. Don’t get discouraged! Most behaviour, including this one, escalate before disappearing. Now is the time to recognize this and be consistent and patient.

Following these simple rules should help to put an end to the begging and crying:

Split your pet’s daily ration into multiple meals - Feed a small amount when you plan to be away, saving the larger, more frequent meals for when you are home (and likely to be exposed to the begging and/or crying behaviour

It’s okay to treat your pet (with the right treats, at the right time!) - Make sure to give only healthy treats (your veterinary team can recommend some great ones!). Remember to account for treats in your pet’s daily calorie allotment. If you cannot bear to stop giving “human food”, then try switching to low calorie, low fat alternatives such as:

·mini carrots
·rice cakes
·apple slices
·dry toast
·cucumber slices

*** NOTE: Not all fruits and vegetables are safe to feed your pet! ***

Always check with your veterinary team before feeding any produce to your pet! Foods to avoid include:

·Grapes
·Raisins
·Peaches with the pit (or any stone fruit)
·Onion (cooked or raw)
·Garlic (cooked or raw)
·Chocolate

NEVER reward begging or crying for food - When pets start this behavior, remove them from the situation (put your pet outside or in another room while you are preparing food, eating or any other activity that seems to trigger the begging or crying). After doing this consistently for a few weeks, the behaviour should stop. Remember: giving in just once will reinforce the behaviour and can make it even stronger!

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS....

My cat doesn't want to play - how do I encourage him/her?
If your cat is significantly overweight, it may be uncomfortable to move. Once you have placed him or her on a proper weight control diet and the weight starts coming off, that's when you will start to notice an increase in energy levels.

If you want to increase the level of activity of your cat, there are a number of toys that cats find fascinating. Toys that have rapid, unpredictable movements or toys that make high pitched sounds are an excellent choice. You may have to do a little experimentation to find out which toys are of the most interest to your cat.

You can also hide small amounts of your cat's food in different areas of the house to encourage your kitty to "hunt" for their meal. Or place the food into containers that slowly release the food as cats play with the container. Both methods will encourage activity while satisfying your cat's natural hunting instincts.

How long will it take for me to see weight loss/achieve the target weight?
Pets are as unique as humans in the way they lose weight. Most pets will start to lose weight after the first month. Typically, dogs will take 12-14 weeks and cats will take 18-20 weeks to achieve a target weight (85% of their starting weight).

My pet has been on the program for a few weeks and I’m not seeing any weight loss. What should I do?
The first thing to do is verify your pet’s energy intake from all sources. Check that the recommended amount of food is being measured out daily and that treats do not exceed 10% of the total daily calorie intake. If the recommended amount of food is being fed and there is no weight loss after several weeks, your pet may have a slower metabolic rate therefore be a candidate for a modified program.

Consult with your veterinary team. They will provide a number of suggestions to meet the specific energy requirements of your pet. Healthy weight loss is your veterinarian’s priority.

Can my pet lose weight too quickly?
Yes! Your veterinary team’s goal is to have your pet lose excess body fat while maintaining or building muscle. In addition, they want to ensure that your pet is benefiting from the required nutrients while eating fewer calories so that your pet’s immune system and overall health are not compromised.

Rapid weight loss in cats can result in a serious medical condition - hepatic lipidosis (aka - fatty liver). Following the recommendations of your veterinary team will ensure safe, effective and sustainable weight loss.

What if I have more than one cat and only one needs to lose weight?
If not all cats in your home need to lose weight, you can use the following suggestions to help keep your pudgy kitty on the road to good health:

·Ensure that each cat has his or her own bowl and feeding area

·Assign only one person in the household to feed the cats

·Meal feed all cats instead of free feeding (leaving food out all day)

·Feed cats in separate rooms

·Use a box for the cat who doesn’t need to lose weight - put his/her food in a box with an entrance cut out so the slim cat can fit in, but the overweight cat cannot

·If you cannot feed your cats separately, work with your veterinary team to determine the total calories required per day to feed all your cats. They will recommend an appropriate feeding amount for all the cats which may include a separate supplemental feeding for the lean cats in your household.

Why can’t I just feed less of a regular diet?
When you feed less of a regular diet, you are reducing calories - but you are also reducing all of the essential nutrients including protein, vitamins and minerals.

Regular diets are designed for pets of average body weight with average energy requirements. They are not formulated to provide all the essential nutrients when reduced calories are fed like special ‘weight loss’ diets are.

I buy “Light” food from the supermarket - isn’t that good enough?
The calories per cup or can (caloric density) of different reduced-calorie diets vary widely. Diets that are marketed as reduced-calorie diets may contain MORE calories than regular maintenance diets!

Why does my pet ask for food even if he or she is not hungry?
Are you sure your pet is asking for food? In many cases, your pet is simply seeking your attention and love. If you reward this behaviour by always offering food, you will train your pet to expect food every time they display this behaviour. Replace the food with some interactive time with your pet.

Cats are, by nature, hunters. Much more of their time is spent in the act of searching for and stalking their prey than in eating their meal. Much of the behaviours exhibited by cats can be related to the hunting ritual rather than true hunger.

How often should I feed my pet?
We recommend feeding several times a day. Multiple meals help to alleviate hunger and increase the energy expenditure. The calories burned while digesting a meal can represent up to 10% of the pet’s daily energy expenditure.

Feeding several small meals a day burns more calories and may contribute to faster weight loss. In all cases, pets need to be carefully portion-fed with the prescribed amount being measure out daily.

What's the best way to keep my dog active?
A leash walk every day is a perfect way for you and your dog to bond and both "burn" some calories! Try choosing the same time every day, and watch your dog start to anticipate this fun time with you.

Hide-and-Seek is another excellent activity that can be done both inside and out! Try showing your dog one of his favourite toys and then hiding it somewhere in the house (or shut off the lights and see if they can find it in the same room).

Swimming is one of the best forms of exercise for your dog, since it puts little stress on joints. Swimming is often recommended for dogs that are recovering from joint injuries and for dogs on a weight loss program.

While exercise is always a good idea, there are some things to take into consideration when getting ready to get your pup moving:

COLD WEATHER: There will be very few days that are too cold for our four-legged companions to go out for exercise, but we may need to be careful. Small dogs can benefit from a coat or sweater, to help protect against the elements. Some dogs may need boots to help protect their feet from salt on the sidewalks and roads as well as prevent "ice balls" from forming between their pads, which can be both annoying or painful.

HOT WEATHER: Exercise is always a little rougher on us and our dogs during the warmer weather. Be sure to have plenty of fresh water available at all times. Many “travel” bowls are available for those extended walks. Try to do your exercise during the early morning or late evening hours, when the temperature is not as hot.

START SLOW: It is best to start any exercise regime slowly and work up to the desired routine. Try to create consistency where possible. It is best to do small amounts of exercise more frequently. “Weekend warriors” are more prone to injury. Avoid any exercise the encourages your dog to jump as this type of activity can result in torn “knee” ligaments, back injuries…etc.

KNOW WHEN TO STOP: Dogs love the time that they spend with us and know how fun it is to be active outdoors, but they do not know when to stop. We need to be very conscious of the clues that our dog is giving when “enough is enough”. Stop when your dog starts to lag behind your (especially if he or she usually forges ahead). Stop when your dog shows signs of fatigue such as laying down, stopping, excessive panting..etc.

So you see, with a little time, patience and some good old-fashioned hard work, you can help your pudgy pooch or chubby kitty get fit and healthy!

February is National Dental Health Month which means that now is the time to make sure your pet's teeth are up to par. Good oral hygiene is about more than just nice smelling breath and a pretty smile (although a lack of 'doggy or kitty breath' is certainly a big plus!). A diseased mouth can harbour loads of destructive bacteria that can affect other organs such as the heart, kidney and liver! On top of that, diseased teeth can be really painful. Have you ever had a cavity? We all know just how much a toothache hurts and just because our pets are better at hiding their pain doesn't mean they aren't suffering. How do you think your mouth would feel if you didn't brush your teeth -- EVER? Now think about how often you take a toothbrush to your furry friend's mouth. If you're like most of us brushing your pet's teeth can be a cumbersome and unpleasant chore. But there are many tips and tricks to make the experience more pleasant for both you and your furry friend as well as other things you can do to make your pet's pearly whites healthy! Keep reading to find out more!

NAME THAT TOOTH!
If we're going to talk about oral health, it's probably good to know a little bit more about those little guys we call 'teeth'. The canine and feline mouth is made up of a combination of different teeth and each tooth has a very specific function.

Incisors - These are the little teeth right in the front of the mouth. They are designed to rip and tear meat and skin. In the modern pooch and kitty these teeth don't get as much use as they did back when dogs and cats were wild. The lack of continuous use makes these teeth a prime target for dental problems.

Canines - Don't be fooled by the name -- both dogs and cats have these types of teeth! Canines are the big long 'fang' teeth located right beside the incisors. These teeth are meant for tearing, piercing and catching prey. The roots on the canine teeth are very long and extend deep into the facial cavity.

Premolars & Molars - This describes the remainder of the teeth in your pet's mouth. These teeth are used to grind and shear food and any problems are likely to cause some major pain upon chewing.

DOG VS. CAT
The structure of the canine and feline mouth is quite different - each one designed and suited for the lifestyle and diet that our pet's evolved from. Historically, cats are strict carnivores (meaning they only ate meat) so their teeth are designed for ripping and tearing, their jaw movement is sharp and scissor-like and the table surfaces of their teeth are super sharp.

Dogs, on the other hand, are omnivorous meaning they eat a combination of both meat and vegetables. Their jaws have evolved to facilitate this varied diet: their incisors and canines are sharp and can tear and their molars have a flat surface for grinding. A dogs jaw has both a scissor motion and a grinding circular motion.

THE MANY FACES OF DENTAL DISEASE
Dental disease can present itself in many different ways. The most obvious forms of poor oral health can include broken, infected or decayed teeth. There are, however, many other disease processes that can affect the teeth and oral cavity the most common being periodontal disease.

DENTAL LINGO
When your veterinary team talks to you about your pet's oral health they may use some terminology that is unfamiliar to you. We're hear to shed some light on those technical terms so that both you and your veterinary team are on the same page.

Plaque - This refers to the soft "slimy" layer of material that covers the surface of your pet's teeth. Plaque is comprised of salivary proteins, decayed food materials and bacteria. While plaque is hard to see with the naked eye it is easily removed with brushing. But beware -- it returns quickly so continuous care is needed to keep the plaque at bay!

Calculus - No, not the dreaded math class many of us had to endure in highschool! Calculus (or tartar, as most of us call it) as it relates to oral health refers to mineralized plaque deposits that are often yellow to brown in colour. Once calculus appears it is difficult to remove due to the strength with which it adheres to the tooth surface. The only way to properly and thoroughly remove calculus is through a professional dental cleaning.

Gingiva - This is just the technical term for the 'gums' and describes the soft tissue that lines the oral cavity and surround the teeth. While the gingiva are generally pink in colour, some breeds have dark pigmentation that can change the colour of the gums in some spots.

Gingivitis - The ending "-itis" means 'inflammation'; therefore, Gingivitis is the inflammation of the gingiva! Gingivitis is the first stage of periodontal disease and can cause the gum tissue to be swollen, red and bleed easily when touched.

Prophylaxis - A 'prophy' is just the term used to describe the process of cleaning a pet's teeth under anesthesia by a member of the veterinary team (often the doctor or technician).

PERIODONT-WHO?
Periodontal disease affects over 75% of all adult dogs and cats making it one of the top diseases afflicting our pets today!

Periodontal disease is a process that causes destruction of the supporting structures around the teeth including the gums, the bone that forms the tooth socket (alveolar bone) and the connective tissue that attaches the tooth into the tooth socket (periodontal ligament). In people, periodontal disease is often referred to as 'Gum disease'.

The primary cause of periodontal disease is bacteria. As plaque and calculus build up on the teeth it forms an ideal breeding ground for disease-causing bacteria to multiply. These bacteria gradually invade the gums and other supporting tissue around the teeth. If the bacteria are allowed to invade below the gumline they can cause infection and inflammation leading to the destruction of the periodontal tissues.

In advanced cases periodontal disease can weaken the gum tissue and bones surrounding the teeth, leading to recession of the gums, bone loss, and eventually tooth loss.

Periodontal disease does not discriminate and equally affects dogs and cats though many of the smaller breeds of dog may be predisposed due to their small mouths, crowding and misaligned teeth.

DIAGNOSIS: PERIODONTAL DISEASE
So, how do we go about figuring out if a pet has dental disease? The first step is taking a peek in your pet's mouth to see if there are any telltale signs of periodontal disease such as:

* Visible calculus on teeth

* Bad breath (halitosis)

* Swollen gums

* Bleeding from the gums

* History of anorexia or decreased appetite

* History of increased salivation

* Teeth that appear loose

* Pus and debris visible around teeth

While visible inspection of the mouth can give us some pretty good clues about what is going on, we often cannot determine the extent of dental disease until the dog or cat is relaxed under a general anesthetic. Once the pet is anesthetized some additional diagnostic tests can be run:

Radiographs (x-rays): Dental x-rays are essential in determining the extent of periodontal disease once it progresses below the gum line. Dental x-rays will show destruction of the supporting bone around the teeth in areas of moderate to severe periodontal disease.

Periodontal Probing: A special instrument called a periodontal probe is used to evaluate for periodontal disease and to measure periodontal pockets and areas of gum loss around the teeth.

BEYOND STINKY BREATH
As we mentioned earlier, good oral health is about much more than sweet smelling breath; it's about keep your pet healthy from the inside out! The physical manifestations of dental disease are not limited to just the mouth and teeth. The dental calculus that we often see with chronic dental disease contains pathogenic bacteria. (Note: Pathogen comes from the Greek word meaning "that which produces suffering" and refers to any biological agent that can cause disease or illness).

Chronic infection of the teeth and gums can produce a heavy bacteria load that can then seed/spread out to other parts of the body producing potentially life-threatening and life-limiting diseases. Common sites of secondary infection include:

SINUSES: The tooth roots in the upper jaw communicate with the nasal sinuses. Heavy bacteria-laden dental calculus can lead to chronic sinusitis that can respond to antibiotics initially but will then reoccur. Suffering pets will show the following symptoms:

* chronic sneezing
* nasal discharge (blood and/or pus)
* weight loss
* decreased appetite
* trouble breathing (occasional)

HEART: Medical research shows that heavy bacteria loads in the oral cavity can enter the bloodstream and cause infections in the heart. A common site for bacterial buildup is on the mitral valve or left atrial/ventricular valve between the left atrium and left ventricle. If enough bacterial debris builds up on this valve, the mitral valve will not close properly and mitral regurgitation can occur.

KIDNEYS: Increased bacterial load can infect the filtering devices of the outer kidney (the glomeruli) and produce a chronic underlying infection that can lead to chronic kidney disease or kidney failure.

LIVER: Just as with the kidneys, increases bacterial buildup can set up a bacterial infection of the liver (hepatitis) which can seriously affect the ability of the liver to metabolize toxins and produce necessary body proteins.

WHAT & HOW OFTEN?
Just like in people, the best way to ensure good oral health and prevent future problems is to have your pet's teeth professionally cleaned on a regular basis. The frequency with which a pet needs a dental prophylaxis depends on a number of factors:

* Age - Dogs and cats as young as 3 years of age can form cavities, get tooth root infections and develop infections of the gums (periodontal disease)

* Breed - certain breeds are more prone to dental disease due to the shape and structure of their mouths (i.e, poodles, pugs...etc.)

* Home Care - looking after your pet's teeth at home may not entirely prevent tartar from forming, but it will certainly keep it at bay much longer prolonging the time in between necessary cleanings.

NOTE: There are also a number of great products on the market, from rinses to drinking water additives, that can help you in your quest for good oral health for your pet!

* Health Status - Pets with immunosuppressive diseases (i.e., Feline Leukemia, FIV..etc.) will have accelerated dental disease since the normal protective mechanisms of the body are slowed or impeded by their infection

* Diet - Pets that eat only canned food may have increased dental disease because there is very little abrasive contact of the diet with the teeth

* Abnormal Dietary Elements - Pets that are chronic rock eaters and tennis ball players can have increased dental wear and fractured teeth, leading to pain and infection.

SAY AHHH!!!!
So - your veterinary team has recommended a professional dental prophylaxis, you've booked the date and you're ready to go! Here's some information on your pet's upcoming big day and the steps taken to provide a thorough dental examination.

A Quick Note About Anesthesia:
Putting your pet "under" general anesthesia allows your veterinary team to perform a complete and thorough cleaning and examination of your pet's mouth and teeth above and below the gum line. Since our pet's are not very good at holding still and saying "ahhh" this procedure is not possible while your pet is awake. Professional dental prophylaxis involves the use of ultrasonic scalers that use small particles of water to clean the teeth. Throughout the entire procedure your pet will be placed under full anesthesia with an endotracheal tube in place to prevent water particles and bacteria from passing into the trachea and lungs.

RINSING: Once your pet is fully asleep a registered veterinary technician (think: nurse) will rinse the mouth with a special antibacterial solution. This will reduce the bacterial levels in the mouth in preparation for the prophylaxis.

ULTRASONIC CLEANING & HAND SCALING: Next, plaque and calculus will be cleaned from the tooth surfaces using ultrasonic and hand cleaning instruments -- just like when you go to the dentist!

DENTAL RADIOGRAPHS: After the teeth have been cleaned up dental x-rays will be taken to locate any abnormal teeth, regions of periodontal disease or any other disease oral tissue.

PERIOCEUTIC TREATMENTS: If any periodontal pockets are found within the gums around your pet's teeth these regions may be treated with a long-acting antibiotic polymer that helps control infection and decrease the pocket size.

TOOTH EXTRACTION: Unfortunately some teeth may be so badly diseased and infected that they must be extracted to reduce pain and further infection.

DENTAL CHARTING: Your veterinary team wants to make sure they keep on top of any changes or concerns about your pet's teeth which is why any problems identified during the dental prophylaxis are recorded on a special dental chart. Treatments performed such as extractions or perioceutic treatments are also recorded.

DENTAL AFTERCARE: Dental aftercare can take many different forms, including pain management, antibiotics and tooth brushing to prevent reoccurring dental problems.

Antibiotic medications - With moderate to severe dental disease, large amounts of bacteria can be released into the bloodstream when the teeth are cleaned. Antibiotics can be prescribed to help heal the mouth and reduce the amount of bacteria that can enter the system circulations

Pain medications - Pain management is especially important when dealing with dental extractions. Pain control may be prescribed

CAN'T BRUSH?? HERE ARE SOME OTHER WAYS YOU CAN HELP KEEP YOUR PET'S SMILE INTACT!

Dental Diets:

One of the easiest ways to combat poor oral health is through food. Your pet has to eat anyways, so why shouldn't they eat something that is proven to benefit them and their oral health?

The myth that dry kibble diets are better for teeth than 'wet' diets is only partially true. Even pets that are on commercial dry diets can still have heavy plaque and tartar buildup and be at risk for periodontal disease. This is because most dry pet food crumble without much resistance, offering little to no abrasive effect from chewing.

Dental diets are formulated to offer more resistance when a pet bites down allowing the full tooth to be embedded in the food kernel. This helps scrape plaque off the tooth's surface. Some formulas also contain antibacterial additives that bond with plaque to help make it 'less sticky'.

Be sure to look for products that have been awarded the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) Seal for plaque and tartar to help keep a pet's teeth clean and the gum tissues and bone around the root healthy. The VOHC seal identifies products that have met pre-set standards for plaque and/or tartar control in dogs and cats.

Dental Chews
Dental chews are products that encourage chewing, exercise the periodontal ligament fibres and cause flushing of oral fluids through the periodontal ligament space. The mechanical abrasion that occurs when the teeth sink into and scrape against dental treats helps to prevent plaque and tartar build-up. The addition of enzymes and other anti-plaque products can compliment this effect.

Once again, look for the VOHC seal of acceptance which indicates products that have been scientifically proven to reduce plaque and/or tartar.

Oral Rinses
There are some excellent products on the market that contain chlorhexidine - an antibacterial agent that helps keep bacteria levels in the mouth at bay. These rinses are only available through your veterinary hospital,

Water Additives
If you find the thought of brushing or rinsing your pet's teeth daunting there is still one more option available to help maintain your pet's good oral health. There are several products on the market that you add to your pet's drinking water to help control plaque. These products generally work by making the surface of the teeth 'more slippery' making it more difficult for plaque to adhere.

Whether your pet is just a baby or a Golden Oldie senior, every pet deserves top notch dental care to help keep their pearly whites in tip top shape. A preventative dental care program will help keep your furry friend's teeth strong, gums healthy and life better!! If you are concerned about your pet's teeth, be sure to get in touch with your veterinary team! Many hospital's will offer special discounts during Dental Health Month to highlight the importance of good oral health.

Every Spring and Summer thousands of mosquitoes invades our campgrounds and our homes with their pesky buzzing and annoying bites. But for our four-legged friends these insects are more than just a nuisance - they are a serious health threat.

Think about how many times each season you get bitten by a pesky mosquito and you can begin to understand why heartworm disease is such a concern.

With the mosquito population ever growing and evolving, Heartworm prevention is more important than ever! Luckily medications exist that will protect your dog against not only heartworms, but fleas, ticks and some worms as well!

WHAT IS HEARTWORM?

When a mosquito bites an infected animal it takes up these microfilariae with its blood meal. Over the next 10 - 14 days the microfilariae undergo a series drastic changes eventually transforming into infective larvae which then migrate to the head of the mosquito where they wait to infect another host. When the mosquito bites another animal, the infective larvae are passed on to the second animal through the wound. Between 75 and 120 days after infection, these larvae have transformed into immature heartworms at which point they enter the animal’s bloodstream and are carried through the heart where they lodge in the arteries and the lungs.

Over the next 3 to 4 months the worms will grow and increase in size. By approximately 6 to 7 months after infection, the adult worms have mated and the females being producing microfilariae. (Click Image To Enlarge)

Symptoms
In the early stages, symptoms of infection are often absent and many dogs will show little or no sign of infection even after the heartworms have matured.

Early symptoms of infection, when present, include coughing, especially during and after exercise, and early exhaustion upon exercise. More advanced cases progress to severe weight loss, fainting, coughing up blood, and, finally, congestive heart failure.

Detection & Prevention
A simple blood test is all that is needed to detect the presence of heartworm in an infected dog. Once a negative result is obtained, preventative medication, which interupts the lifecycle of the heartworm, can be administered. These medications come in a variety of convenient formats (such as chewable treats or topical liquids) and are given once a month during the high-risk mosquito season. In Southern Ontario, the initial dose must be given by June 1^st and should be continued for 6 months.

It is absolutely critical that we ensure that your dog is not infected with heartworm before beginning preventative medication. Giving a heartworm preventative to a dog that is positive for heartworm can cause serious and severe adverse effects. Even dogs who take medication every year must be re-tested before beginning another season of preventatives.

While the preventative drugs are highly effective, and when regularly administered will protect more than 99% of dogs from infection, failure of protection can occur. Most failures of protection result from irregular and infrequent administration of the drug, dicontinuing medication too early in the fall, vomiting medication after ingestion and the dog exceeding its recommended dosage due to growth or weight gain.

Most monthly preventives all have a reasonable margin for error in their administration so that if a single month's dose is accidentally missed, adequate protection is usually provided so long as the next two monthly doses are administered on schedule, although no guarantee is possible.

PREVENTATIVE MEDICATION - WHICH ONE IS RIGHT FOR YOUR POOCH?

There are 4 effective medications for the prevention of heartworm disease. For those travelling south of the border, a preventive program should be maintained year round.

Revolution This topically applied medicine has Selamectin as its active ingredient. Revolution protects pets not only against heartworm, but is a great flea and tick treatment and preventative. It also offers protection against some common intestinal parasites. This is the only medication that is safe for use on cats and can be used to treat and prevent fleas, heartworm, parasites, ear mites and sarcoptic mange in felines.

Sentinel This preventative comes as small flavoured pills and has Milbemycin and Leufenuron as the active ingredients. Once again, this product protects not only against heartworm but is also effective against some intestinal parasites and contains an insect growth regulator for flea prevention.

Interceptor The preventative has Milbemycin as it's active ingredient and protects pets against heartworm and some intestinal parasites. No flea protection is offered.

Heartgard Plus The oldest of all heartworm preventatives, Heartgard has Ivermectin as it's main ingredient and offers protection against heartworms and a few intestinal parasites. Heartgard comes as chewable treats that are given monthly.

Since one mosquito can bite many pets during it’s lifetime, one infected dog can potentially become the source of infection to all dogs in a given community during mosquito season. With so many convenient and affordable choices, there really is no reason why ALL dogs shouldn't be on some form of heartworm prevention.

HEARTWORM Q&A
Answering the most common questions we receive during heartworm season!

Why do I need a prescription before starting my dog on Heartworm disease prevention medication?

The medications we prescribe to help prevent Heartworm are prescription medications; as such, there are strict regulations and guidelines set out by our governing bodies (The College of Veterinarians of Ontario) that dictate how and when we may prescribe these medications to our patients. In addition to having to follow Federal laws which require a prescription for Heartworm disease prevention medication, heartworm testing is also important because giving this type of medication to pets that are already infected with Heartworm can cause serious illness or even death. For your pet’s safety, we need to assess his/her Heartworm status before prescribing any preventative heartworm medication.

I missed one/two months of Heartworm disease prevention medication. Now what?

The protection offered by the heartworm preventatives is reliant on strict compliance and adherance to a fixed administration timeline; missing pills increases your pet's risk of becoming infected with heartworms. If this happens, continue giving your pet the medication monthly (DO NOT DOUBLE UP ON DOSES) and have your dog tested in 7 months. Why 7 months? The lifecycle of the heartworm is fairly complex and it takes 6 - 7 months for the worms to mature and produce the antigens that these tests measure. The likelihood that your pet was infected during the medication lapse depends on the time of year and the mosquito concentration.

Why do dogs need blood tests before starting Heartworm disease prevention medication?

Before starting Heartworm prevention, we test to make sure your dog doesn’t already have a Heartworm infection. Giving Heartworm disease prevention medications to pets that already have infections can cause severe illness, or death.

Pets less than 7 months old can begin Heartworm prevention without testing but your vet may recommend testing 4-7 months after starting the medication. This is because it takes 6 - 7 months after being infected for microfilariae (the immature heartworms) to mature to the point that they will produce a positive test, so testing a young pet would not yield useful results.

After a mosquito bites a pet and injects Heartworms, how long does it take before the blood test is positive?

It takes 7 months for the Heartworm microfilariae to mature so that an infection is detected and the test is positive.

How do Heartworms damage pets?

Infected mosquitoes inject tiny immature worms called microfilariae into our pets. The microfilariae swim through the blood vessels and create turbulence that damages blood cells and vessel walls. The damage causes clotting, scarring, and narrowing of blood vessels. The blood pressure goes up. As the pressure goes up, the heart pumps harder to get the blood through the vessels. This causes the heart to fail. The more worms damaging the blood vessels, the faster the damage occurs. Heartworms can live from 3-5 years - that’s a lot of damage!

The pet’s symptoms are caused because Heartworms prefer to live in the heart and main pulmonary artery in the lungs. If the pulmonary artery or smaller arteries weaken, Heartworms enter the air passages and can be coughed up. Sometimes a pet that’s coughing up worms will look like it’s vomiting, but the worms are coming from the lungs. Pets with advanced Heartworm disease have signs of heart failure including frequent coughing, tiring easily, abdominal swelling, decreased appetite, weight loss, fainting, and blood clotting problems.

It can take up to 2 years for an infected pet to show any symptoms of a Heartworm infestation!! That's why it is SO important to test their blood each and every year!

What time of year do I need to give Heartworm disease prevention medication?

In Ontario our high-risk season extends from June until November so we recommend starting preventative monthly medication on June 1.

Heartworm medication actually works backwards (it's kind of a tricky concept to grasp, but just trust us!). It has to do with the lifecycle of the Heartworm and the method by which the medication acts. Because of the way the medication works, preventatives given in June would actually be protecting from May to October.

Can one dog give another dog Heartworms?

Heartworm infections do not go directly from one dog to another. However, if a dog has Heartworm infection, and a mosquito bites that dog, the mosquito can pick up the Heartworm microfilariae, which it can transmit to other pets.

If I go South for the winter, should I put my pet on HW prevention year-round?

Different regions experience different high-risk heartworm seasons. Many states in the USA recommend year-round medication as the risk of heartworm from mosquitoes does not disappear as it does in Ontario (mosquitoes cannot live once the temperature dips below a certain level - so once winter comes, the threat of Heartworm decreases).

Diagnostic Blood Work can be broken down into two categories: Complete Blood Cell Count and Blood Chemistries. This month we will focus on the Complete Blood Cell Count and why these values are so important. Tune in next month to for Blood Work 202 - Blood Chemistries De-Mystefied!

THE COMPLETE BLOOD CELL COUNT

The Complete Blood Count (CBC) examines the blood for changes in the red and white blood cell count, platelet count, blood parasites and changes in cell shape and size that can suggest underlying diseases. A CBC is an integral part of routine and diagnostic blood work and is made up of the following components:

* Packed Cell Volume (PCV)
* Red Blood Cell count
* Hemoglobin
* White Blood Cell count and Differential
* Platelet count
* Blood film evaluation

Packed Cell Volume (PCV):
The PCV is the most reliable measurement of the red blood cell level in a patient and represents the percentage of red blood cells present in a blood sample. Evaluating the PCV allows for a qualitative analysis of any change in the volume of red blood cells in the blood.

Decreases in the red blood cell concentration is suggestive of a disease process and can be caused by an increase of the destruction of red blood cells as seen in immune-mediated disease. A low PCV can also suggest severe blood loss or anemia.

Increases to the red blood cell concentration is generally suggestive of dehydration. As a patient's hydration status becomes more challenged, the amount of fluid in the blood decreases thereby increasing the percentage of red blood cells in the PCV. The more severe the dehydration the higher the PCV value. A less likely cause would be Polycythemia which is an increase in red blood cells as a result of an underlying disease process that affects blood cell production in the bone marrow.

The Red Blood Cell
Red blood cells function to carry oxygen to and remove carbon dioxide from the tissue to be expelled by the lungs. Oxygen is needed by every cell in the body to take sugar and produce carbon dioxide, water and energy in a process called cellular respiration. Without this process, cells cannot produce energy and will die.

Red blood cells are produced primarily in the bone marrow. In fact, all blood cells, including platelets (which we'll get to later) are derived from bone marrow stem cells. The lifecycle of blood cells is a complex process by which stem cells are produced and differentiated into the various blood components (see picture -- click to enlarge)

Blood work that shows a significant decrease in the number of red blood cells in a sample is of great concern. As the red blood cell is responsible for bringing oxygen to every cell in the body, a drastic drop in numbers (known as anemia) can be life threatening as a patient struggles to oxygenate tissues. Low red blood cell counts often stem from severe active bleeding or from a decreased production of red blood cells in the bone marrow.

The White Blood Cell & The Immune System
The immune system is a comlex cellular defense that recognizes foreign substances and infectious agents and mounts a reaction to destroy the foreign agent. The system responds to infectious agents (bacterial, fungal and viral), parasites, and foreign material. The two basic components of the immune system are:

Lymph Nodes - Lymph nodes are small round or oval structures that function to filter the blood for foreign material and produce white blood cells that then produce antibodies in response to foreign infection.

White Blood Cells - These are specific cell types that respond to foreign material and infectious agents. There are several different types of white blood cells (monocytes, neutrophils, lymphocytes, basophils and eosinophils) and each type serves a specific function and responds to different types of infection.

While changes in the quantities and shape of the specific individual white blood cells can give a more focused analysis of immune system function, overall white blood cell count elevation is indicative of infectious, parasitic or inflammatory disease. Increases in white blood cell counts can also be seen with certain types of cancers of the white blood cell (i.e., lymphoma, leukemia...etc.)

Decreases in the number of white blood cells in a sample is generally observed when the patient is infected with specific infectious diseases (i.e., parvo or distemper), the patient is suffering from a severe inflammatory disease process that depletes their ability to produce normal cell numbers, or the patient is undergoing chemotherapy. Pets with significantly low white blood cell counts are susceptible to massive infections and can go into shock.

Platelets
Platelets are small cell components of blood that are several times smaller than normal red blood cells and are necessary for normal blood clotting. Platelets form the initial blood clot at the site of vessel injury. After this 'platelet plug' is formed, circulating proteins (known as clotting factors) are deposited on the platelet plug to strengthen it and 'cement' it in place.

Increases in platelet counts can be indicative of certain types of cancer while decreases indicate bone marrow injury and infectious disease.

THE BLOOD LAB REPORT BROKEN DOWN

If you've ever asked to see a copy of your pet's blood results you've most likely received a sheet that lists a bunch of numbers and letters and that's pretty much it. While our doctors are adept at interpreting what all this means, it's nice to be able to look at the results and understand what everything stands for. Here's a list of some of the items you might see on your pet's next blood test result page.

Red Blood Cell (RBC) Parameters

RBC (red blood cells), HCT (hematocrit) and HGB (hemoglobin)
Increases in these parameters may support dehydration or disease of increased production of red blood cells; decreases indicate anemia and decreased oxygen-carrying capability of the blood.

MCV (mean cell volume)
Increases indicate the presence of larger than normal cells, which may be related to early release of young cells during response to anemia; decreases indicate the presence of smaller than normal cells, which may be associated with chronic blood loss/iron deficiency

MCH (mean cell hemogobin) and MCHC (mean cell hemoglobin concentration)
Increases suggest a breakdown of red blood cells leading to the release of hemoglobin into the surrounding fluid (i.e., plasma); decreases suggest decreased hemoglobin concentraion, which can be seen during response to anemia and chronic blood loss/iron deficiency

RETIC (reticulocytes)
Increases suggest growing numbers of immature red blood cells indicating a response to a peripheral demand for red blood cells; decreases indicate few or no immature red blood cells suggesting the body is unable to respond to a demand for red blood cells (nonregenerative anemia)

White Blood Cell (WBC) Parameters

WBC (white blood cells)
Increases may be due to inflammation, stress, excitement and leukemia; decreases may be due to overwhelming inflammation and bone marrow failure

Leukocyte Differential
Various changes in numbers of NEU (neutrophils), LYM (lymphocytes), MONO (monocytes), EOS (eosinophils), and BASO (basophils) may be seen with different types of inflammation, stress, excitement and leukemia

NEU (neutrophils)
Inflammatory cell associated with infectious and noninfectious disease processes

LYM (lymphocytes)
Immune cell highly responsive to "stress" and potentially increased during chronic infection

MONO (monocytes)
Inflammatory cell associated with repair of tissue

EOS (eosinophils)
Inflammatory cell associated with parasitic disease, hypersensitivity and allergy

BASO (basophils)
Inflammatory cell associated with parasitic disease, hypersensitivity and allergy

Platelet (PLT) Parameters

PLT (platelet count)
Measures the cells that are responsible for clotting. Increases are potentially associated with a hypercoagulable state (i.e., blood clots too easily putting pet at risk for clots in the blood stream which can become lodged in arteries leading to heart, lung or brain concerns). Decreases may be seen with decreased production (bone marrow failure), increased consumption (inflammation) and destruction in the blood (infectious, immune-mediated).

Don't forget to tune in next month for Blood Work 202: Blood Chemistries De-Mystified to learn about the different tests for organ systems such as the liver, kidneys and pancreas!!

Last month we tackled the good 'ol CBC (Complete Blood Cell Count). This month we take on Blood Work 202 - Blood Chemistries De-Mystified! where the focus is on the Blood Chemistries which gives your veterinarian valuable information about your pet's internal organs and can help detect problems such as liver and kidney disease before symptoms even appear!

ALANINE AMINOTRANSFERASE (ALT)

What is it?
Alanine aminotransferase (ALT) is an indicator of liver damage in dogs and cats.

What does it do?
ALT is a hepatic intracellular enzyme that plays a role in providing the body with energy.

Where is it produced?
ALT is an enzyme that is produced in the liver cell (hepatocyte)

What do abnormalities indicate?
Changes in ALT activities generally occur when liver cells are damaged, causing a leakage of cellular contents into the bloodstream. Decreased ALT activity is not generally associated with disease conditions. In rare cases, low activity has been mildly associated with congenital liver shunts. Increased ALT activity of the enzyme in the blood occurs when there alterations in the lipid membrane of the liver cells secondary to injury, inflammations or infection within the liver. Significant increases of ALT activity are associated with acute liver disease which affects many liver cells simultaneously.

ALBUMIN

What is it?
Albumin is a small protein produced by the liver to carry other nutritional and hormonal components through the blood

What does it do?
Because Albumin is a protein molecule, it maintains a constant pull of fluid from the tissue into the bloodstream. This effect, called oncotic pressure, helps maintain blood pressure because these protein molecules help draw and hold fluid inside the vessels.

Where is it produced?
Albumin is produced in the liver

What do abnormalities indicate?
Marked elevations in albumin are associated typically with marked dehydration because albumin concentration increases the decreasing fluid levels in the blood. Decreasing albumin levels can be associated with acute and chronic bleeding or chronic disease of the liver, kidneys or intestines. Changes in albumin concentration can be of concern, but the blood test must also be fully evaluated, along with the pet's condition, history, other diagnostics and response to treatment, before a diagnosis can be made.

ALKALINE PHOSPHATASE (ALP)

What is it?
ALP is a hepatic intracellular enzyme evident in many body tissues (i.e., gall bladder, liver, muscle, bone)

What does it do?
ALP is involved in processing proteins within the body

Where is it produced?
ALP refers to a large number of intracellular enzymes that are present within the live, intestine, bone, kidneys and placenta. Since all non-liver ALP has a very short half-life, serum ALP generally reflects that of the liver enzyme. Exceptions to this include increased bone origin activity during active bone growth in young animals or cancer.

What do abnormalities indicate?
Increased ALP activity can come from several possible pathological and nonpathological conditions. Unlike ALT, ALP activity does not increase due to "leakage" from liver cells; its activity increases because of increased production of the enzyme by liver cells in response to disease. Some conditions that increase ALP activity are:
* Hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing's Disease)
* Liver and gall bladder disease
* Bone growth
* Long term use of certain medications (i.e., phenobarbital, prednisone)

AMYLASE

What is it?
Amylase is an indication of pancreatitis in dogs (it is not helpful in evaluation of feline pancreatitis)

What does it do?
Amylase is an enzyme that helps break down complex sugar for absorption in the small intestine.

Where is it produced?
Amylase is produced in the pancreas and enters the small intestine through the pancreatic ducts to break down sugars for digestion.

What do abnormalities indicate?
In the dog, elevations in amylase can suggest an infection or inflammation of the pancreas (i.e., pancreatitis). The disease process causes the enzyme to leak out of normal pancreatic cells and into the bloodstream. In the cat, elevation of pancreatic enzymes does not directly correlate with pancreatitis. In rare cases, elevations of amylase may suggest pancreatic cancer in the dog and cat.

ASPARTATE AMINOTRANSFERASE (AST)

What is it?
AST is a an indicator of acute liver damage in dogs and cats.

What does it do?
AST is a hepatic intracellular enzyme involved in protein metabolism within the liver.

Where is it produced?
AST is an enzyme produced in liver cells.

What do abnormalities indicate?
Changes in AST activity generally occurs when liver cells are damaged, causing a leakage of cellular contents into the bloodstream. Decreased AST activity is not generally associated with disease conditions; however, increased activity of the enzyme in the blood occurs when there are alterations in the lipid membrane of the liver cells secondary to injury, inflammation or infection within the liver. Significant increases of AST activity are associated with acute liver disease that affects many liver cells simultaneously.

BILIRUBIN

What is it?
Bilirubin is used to evaluate the liver's ability to detoxify and to eliminate toxins from the body. It is a liver function test.

What does it do?
Bilirubin is a potentially toxic metabolite produced from the breakdown of hemoglobin (red blood cells) and other pigments in the body. It is delivered to the liver to be detoxified and excreted through the gall bladder and intestinal system.

Where is it produced?
Heme pigments are broken down by the liver and excreted into the small intestine as a part of bile. Normally a small amount of bilirubin is excreted in urine.

What do abnormalities indicate?
When there is a liver dysfunction, gall bladder obstruction or massive breakdown of red blood cells in the body, bilirubin builds up in the serum and tissue. Physical signs occur as bilirubin builds up and usually appears as jaundice (yellowing of the skin and whites of eyes).

BLOOD UREA NITROGEN (BUN)

What is it?
Blood urea nitrogen (BUN) concentration evaluates the patient's kidney function. With decreased production, BUN can also be an indicator of liver dysfunction.

What does it do?
Blood urea nitrogen (BUN) is a potentially toxic metabolite produced during protein metabolism.

Where is it produced?
BUN is produced from ammonia in the liver and transported by the bloodstream to the kidneys, where it is largely excreted in urine.

What do abnormalities indicate?
Increases in BUN concentration is typically associated with the body's inability to filter toxins through the kidneys. These can be caused by marked dehydration, kidney disease or urinary obstruction. Occasionally, increases in BUN concentration can be associated with diseases that can produce gastrointestinal ulceration and bleeding. Decreased BUN concentration levels can be associated with liver dysfunction.

CALCIUM

What is it?
Calcium is a mineral that is absorbed from the diet and stored in bone.

What does it do?
Calcium is used for the production of bone, chemical reactions in the body (i.e., blood clotting, many enzymatic reactions), and muscular contraction. It is essential for body function, milk formation, and reproduction.

Where is it produced?
Calcium is absorbed from the diet and stored in the bone. As it is needed, calcium is reabsorbed from the bone and carried in the bloodstream for numerous body functions.

What do abnormalities indicate?
Increased blood calcium concentration can be associated with specific types of tumors and rare hormonal disease. In dogs and cats the most common cause of increased blood calcium concentration is cancer. Decreased blood calcium concentration is generally associated with female dogs immediately after whelping large litters.

CREATININE

What is it?
Tests for creatinine evaluate the patient's kidney function.

What does it do?
Creatinine is a small amino acid that is a metabolite of muscle creatinine and is excreted by the kidneys.

Where is it produced?
Creatinine is produced in the body during normal muscle metabolism.

What do abnormalities indicate?
Marked increases in creatinine concentration is typically associated with the body's inability to filter toxins through the kidneys. This can be caused by marked dehydration, kidney disease, or urinary obstruction. Decreasing creatinine levels can be associated with muscle wasting but are usually not significant or indicative of a disease.

GAMMA-GLUTAMYLTRANSFERASE (GGT)

What is it?
Gamma-Flutamyltransferase (GGT) is an indicator of non-movement of the gall bladder (cholestasis) in the dog and cat.

What does it do?
GGT is a hepatic intracellular enzyme that is involved in protecting cells from cellular injury.

Where is it produced?
All cells except for muscle contain GGT; however, kidney, bile duct and liver cells contain the highest activity.

What do abnormalities indicate?
Increased GGT can be associated with damage to the liver, causing increased production of GGT by the liver cells and released into the bloodstream. Unlike AST and ALT, GGT does not "leak" from liver cells; its activity is increased due to increased production of the enzyme in response to disease. Decreased GGT activity is not generally associated with disease.

GLUCOSE

What is it?
Glucose is the body's energy source obtained from ingestion of carbohydrates and other food stuffs.

What does it do?
Glucose is converted into cellular fuel called ATP by the cells of the body.

Where is it produced?
Glucose is absorbed through the intestines from digestion of carbohydrates and obtained by fat and protein metabolism in the liver.

What do abnormalities indicate?
Low glucose levels (hypoglycemia) commonly occurs secondary to massive infection, liver disease, insulin overdose, or cancer. It also occurs in small newborns that do not have the body reserves to maintain normal body blood sugar levels. Hypoglycemia is an emergency condition that can produce coma, seizures and death and must be treated immediately. High blood sugar levels (hyperglycemia) occurs secondary to stress or disease conditions such as diabetes. Persistent hyperglycemia may require the medical team to do further diagnostic testing to help differentiate if the patient has diabetes or has a stress-induced hyperglycemia.

LIPASE

What is it?
Lipase is an indicator of pancreatitis in the dog. It is not helpful in evaluation of feline pancreatitis.

What does it do?
Lipase is an enzyme that helps break down larger fat molecules for absorption.

Where is it produced?
Lipase is produced in the pancreas and enters the intestines through the pancreatic ducts to break down fats for digestion.

What do abnormalities indicate?
Lipase is released when there is damage to the pancreatic cells that produce leakage of the enzyme into the bloodstream. Pancreatic damage is secondary to infection and inflammation of the pancreas (pancreatitis) or pancreatic cancer. Increases in lipase activity is associated with the infection or inflammation of the pancreas.

PHOSPHORUS

What is it?
Phosphorus is a mineral that can indicate acute or chronic renal (kidney) disease.

What does it do?
Phosphorus is a mineral that plays an important role in many cell functions including bone formation, energy metabolism, muscle contraction and acid-base balance. It is used for stability of bone.

Where is it produced?
Phosphorus is absorbed from the diet and stored with calcium in a complex structure in the bone. The combination of calcium and phosphorus architecture gives bone its strength.

What do abnormalities indicate?
Increased blood phosphorus concentration is associated with both acute and chronic kidney disease. Phosphorus is eliminated after filtering through the kidneys. As with BUN and Creatinine, kidney disease that results in decreased kidney filtration rate can cause an increase in phosphorus concentration in the blood. Phosphorus can also be increased by ingestion of high-phosphate substances (i.e., anti-freeze). Decreased phosphorus concentration is not generally associated with disease conditions.

POTASSIUM

What is it?
Significant changes in potassium can produce severe whole body disease.

What does it do?
Potassium is an electrolyte that is responsible for normal contractions of the heart and skeletal muscle and nerve impulses as well as many other intracellular metabolic functions.

Where is it produced?
Potassium is an electrolyte that is absorbed through the digestive system through dietary elements, stored inside cells and excreted through the kidneys.

What do abnormalities indicate?
Abnormal increases in potassium concentration are serious, life-threatening conditions generally associated with urinary obstruction or hormonal dysfunction. Abnormal decreases in potassium are associated with gastrointestinal losses (vomiting and diarrhea) or increased fluid loss through the kidneys (i.e., kidney disease).

TOTAL PROTEIN (TP)

What is it?
Total protein (TP) is monitored to help evaluate the patient for hydration status and blood loss.

What does it do?
TP is a combination of blood albumin and globulin proteins in the blood. Albumin is produced by the liver as a carrier protein to carry nutrients and hormones through the bloodstream. Globulins are proteins produced from a type of white blood cell (lymphocytes) to help fight off infection.

Where is it produced?
Albumin is produced from the liver. Immunoglobulin is produced by lymphocytes in the bloodstream in response to infectious organisms or other foreign substances.

What do abnormalities indicate?
Elevations in TP can suggest increases in albumin secondary to dehydration, or elevations in globulin secondary to chronic infection. Decreases in TP can be associated with chronically low albumin due to external bleeding or chronic kidney, liver, or intestinal disease. Rarely, decreased production by lymphocytes (immunosuppression) can be associated with a low globulin.

OTHER CHEMISTRIES

CREATINE KINASE (CK) - increases are associated with muscle damage

CHOLESTEROL (CHOL) - increases may be seen with a variety of metabolic disturbances including diabetes mellitus, hypothyroidism, Cushing's disease, pancreatitis and some types of kidney disease; decreases may be seen with liver insufficiency and intestinal disease.

AMYLASE - increases may be seen with pancreatitis, kidney disease, gastrointestinal disease or certain drug treatments.

T4 - increases may indicate hyperthyroidism (primarily cats); decreases may indicate hypothyroidism (primarily dogs)

Well folks, that about wraps up our Blood Work lesson! As you can see there is a huge amount of information we can get from just a few drops of your furry friends precious blood. There is no doubt that preventative blood work during your pet's annual checkup is a valuable diagnostic tool and in the end, keeping your little furball healthy is the goal!

If you've ever experienced a urinary tract infection (UTI) you know just how miserable and uncomfortable bladder issues can be. In our pets, a simple urinary tract infection can put even the healthiest pet at risk for developing bladder stones -- a painful condition in which stones cause irritation to the bladder and can even cause a full blockage of urine flow! Bladder stones are certainly no laughing matter. In the past, it was rare to see certain types of stones in our pets; however, with the addition of excess minerals to pet foods we are seeing these problems more and more often.

If you've noticed that your dog has recently been whining to go out more often, or your cat has been missing the litterbox and having 'tiny accidents' around the house, he/she may be suffering from a urinary tract infection (UTI).

In addition to frequent urination, the following signs may indicate a UTI:
Straining, pain or difficulty urinating
Blood in the urine
Foul smelling urine
Urination in inappropriate places
Tender lower abdomen (in the area of the bladder)
Fever
Lethargy

Similar signs can be seen with urinary stones or obstructions. Your veterinarian can rule out these other problems.

UTIs are a common problem in dogs but relatively uncommon in cats. However, inflammation of the urinary tract in cats may produce UTI-like symptoms, and is a serious health problem. If your cat exhibits any of the above symptoms, take him to a veterinarian as soon as possible. Male cats can show the above signs when their urinary tract is obstructed. This can be life threatening in a short period of time.

Females have a wider and shorter urethra than males and are affected by UTIs more often. Males can get UTIs though, especially when they are intact (non-neutered).

HOW IS A UTI (URINARY TRACT INFECTION) DIAGNOSED?
Your veterinarian will test your pet's urine to diagnose a UTI. A urinalysis is the examination of urine for abnormal substances such as blood, protein, sugar or white blood cells, which may indicate a UTI. Urine samples can be collected by having the pet urinate in a container. A sample can also be retrieved from the bladder by catheterization or by drawing urine directly from the bladder with a needle.

A urine culture for bacteria will be performed to identify the presence and type of bacteria, which will confirm that a UTI is present.

If the urinalysis indicates that your pet has a UTI, your veterinarian will prescribe antibiotics to treat the condition

WHAT CAN I DO TO PREVENT A UTI IN MY PET?
There are some steps you can take at home to decrease the incidence of UTIs.

* Make sure that your pet has access to plenty of clean, fresh water.

* When urine remains in the bladder for a long time, bacteria can multiply and your pet will be more prone to infection. Let your pet outside every few hours to help him eliminate bacteria. If you have an indoor cat, make sure her litter box is always accessible and clean.

* Taking your dog on at least two walks a day will also increase the frequency of urination and may reduce the risk of infection.

** CATS - A SPECIAL CASE **
If your cat is straining to urinate and only produces a few drops of urine or none at all, he/she needs to be seen by a veterinarian immediately. Your cat could be experiencing urethral obstruction, and if the problem is not solved, he could die within just a couple of days.

What is urethral obstruction, and why is it life-threatening?
The urethra is a tubelike structure that carries urine from the bladder to the outside of the body. Sometimes, mineral crystals or stones form in the urethra and block the path to the outside. The blockage is called a urethral plug.

Because a male cat's urethra is longer and narrower than a female's, urethral plugs are most often seen in males (whether or not they are neutered).

Once a plug has formed, urine builds up in the bladder. This is not only painful to the cat, but can quickly cause kidney damage. The kidneys' job is to release poisonous wastes from the body; when kidneys don't function properly, these poisons accumulate in the bloodstream. The final result, if not treated: a painful death.

Causes
The cause of urethral plugs is not fully known. Plugs could result from a combination of poor diet and highly concentrated, alkaline (low acid) urine. Possibly, some viruses or bacterial infections trigger their formation. Some experts believe plugs may be linked to tumors, masses, or diseases of the prostate gland in some cases.

Symptoms
If Kitty is using his litter box often, but with no or little resulting urine; if he is trying to urinate in unusual places; or if he is constantly licking his genitalia, he may have a urethral obstruction. Don't assume your cat is constipated and just give him laxatives. Instead, play it safe and seek veterinary attention. Other signs of obstruction include depression, weakness, vomiting, a lack of appetite, dehydration, and collapse.

Treatment
Urethral obstruction is an emergency. Yet, if the symptoms are noticed early and professional treatment is obtained immediately, your cat's chance of recovery is almost 100 percent.

Your veterinarian will first try to relieve the obstruction by applying gentle pressure to the bladder and manipulating the penis. If the plug remains, the doctor may insert a catheter through the urethra into the bladder (with the cat sedated or under a light anesthesia) or suction urine directly from the bladder with a needle and syringe.

Usually, one of the above procedures will remove the obstruction. As a last resort, however, or if the cat is prone to obstructions, surgery is required. Even if the initial procedures do work, obstruction may recur in some cats within days or weeks.

Prevention
There are several things that can be done at home to help try to prevent urinary obstructions:

All cats should be encouraged to exercise and be kept at a trim, healthy weight.

Feed your cat a high quality cat food that is low in magnesium.

Entice your kitty to urinate frequently by keeping the litter box clean and always accessible.

Give your cat constant access to plenty of fresh water.

If your cat is prone to obstructions, you may need to administer medications or a special diet to help keep his urine acidic. You can also increase his urine's overall acidity by restricting feeding to twice daily. This is because the digestive process temporarily lowers the acidity, so every time Kitty eats, his urine becomes less acidic for awhile. In addition, have your veterinarian perform periodic urinalyses on Kitty. This will keep you and your veterinarian alert to the urine's acidity level and to the presence of any crystal formations, so you can stop problems before they start.

Be sure to discuss these and other preventative measures with your veterinarian, and get his or her approval before administering any medication or supplements to your cat.

Help your cat live a long, full life
Urethral obstruction in cats is becoming less common as more cats are routinely fed better quality cat foods that discourage crystal formation; however, if it does occur it is considered an emergency situation. Urethral obstruction can rapidly become life-threatening over the course of just one to two days. Consequently, any cat owner whose male cat is showing signs of frequent efforts of any kind in the litterbox is strongly urged to seek veterinary attention at once.

BLADDER STONES

Urinary tract infections alter the urinary environment and put a pet at higher risk of developing bladder stones. Bladder stones come in several mineral compositions. The most common stone types are Oxalate and Struvite and since the approach is completely different for each type, it is crucial to determine the stone type. The stone type can be absolutely confirmed if a sample stone is available (either passed naturally or obtained via surgery); a laboratory analysis can easily determine the content of the stone and even determine if the stone consists of layers of different mineral types. Without a sample stone, there are some hints that can be obtained through other tests that might help.

STRUVITE STONES
Struvite stones in our pets are generally formed because of the urinary changes that occur with specific types of bladder infection: almost always Staphyloccocal infection but occasionally a Proteus infection. If a urine culture from a patient with a bladder stone should grow either Staph or Proteus, this would make struvite more likely than oxalate. Also, struvite requires an alkaline pH to form while oxalate requires an acid pH to form; urine pH is a part of any urinalysis and thus provides another clue as to the stone identity.

Struvite is the name given to the crystal composed of Magnesium, Ammonium, and Phosphate. (Struvite is also occasionally referred to as “Triple Phosphate” due to an old erroneous belief that the phosphate ion was bonded to 3 positive ions instead of just magnesium and ammonium.) Struvite crystals are not unusual in normal urine and are usually of no consequence but when they are present in very large amounts, they can form stones.

Urea is an important biochemical excreted in urine. When urine is infected with bacteria that are able to digest urea, urea is broken down into ammonia (NH3). Ammonia in water ionizes into ammonium (NH4+). Ammonia is toxic to the cells of the bladder wall and its presence generates inflammation (though the infection present also generates inflammation as well). The proteins released in the inflammatory reaction form a matrix which the struvite crystals use to form an actual stone. The reaction takes place only in an alkaline pH but the presence of ammonia creates just the alkaline pH needed for stone formation.

OXALATE STONES
It should not be too surprising that there is a strong hereditary component to the formation of oxalate bladder stones. This is also true in humans. There is a substance (called “nephrocalcin”) in urine which naturally inhibits the formation of calcium oxalate stones. This substance is defective in both humans and dogs who form calcium oxalate bladder stones. The production of defective nephrocalcin may be a genetic problem.

In humans, the genetic predisposition for stone formation is coupled with dietary issues. The same problem occurs with our pets -- pets fed commercial pet foods that have too much of certain minerals and vitamins are at a higher risk for developing stones than those pets on higher quality 'veterinary' diets.

There are some metabolic diseases that might predispose a dog to creating a calcium oxalate stone. For example, a dog with Cushing's disease will be over-producing cortisol (commonly known as "cortisone"). This hormone increases calcium excretion in urine. The extra calcium present in the urine will promote a stone. Some animals may have an elevated blood calcium level for any number of reasons and this could lead to excess calcium in the urine as the body attempts to restore calcium balance. Again, extra calcium in the urine promotes a stone. Screening for such medical conditions is important and is generally part of the medical work up once stones are detected on a radiograph. If any such metabolic problems are uncovered, they will need to be treated separately and as these problems are resolved, no further stone prevention measures should be needed.

WHY CAN'T THE BLADDER STONES STAY WHERE THEY ARE?
The most immediate concern for pets with bladder stones is that the urinary opening may obstruct as the pet attempts to pass the stones. This is largely a male dog or cat problem but the results can be life-threatening uremic poisoning.

Bladder stones are irritating to the bladder simply by rubbing on the tender bladder lining. Bleeding typically results and, of course, the chance of developing chronic bladder infections is markedly increased with the presence of bladder stones.

SYMPTOMS OF BLADDER STONES
Generally, the symptoms associated with bladder stones are the same as those exhibited by pets suffering from other urinary issues (see above). Some patients with bladder stones show no symptoms of any kind and the stones are discovered during a routine health examination. There are, however, some symptoms that might promote a search for stones. Bloody urine, recurrent bladder infection (especially by the same organism), or straining to urinate all would raise suspicion. Fortunately, many bladder stones are “radio-opaque” which means they show up readily on x-rays. Occasionally stones are simply passed. If this occurs, it is important to have radiographs taken to check for the presence of more stones. If possible a sample stone should be turned in for analysis to determine for certain the stone type.

WHAT SHOULD BE DONE ABOUT STRUVITE BLADDER STONES?
If the stones present are small enough to pass, the bladder can be manipulated in a way to promote expulsion of the stone through the urethra. This is called “voiding urohydropropulsion” and involves filling the bladder, agitating the bladder so the stones float freely in the urine, and then generating a high pressure urine stream to force the stones out. This technique only works if the stones are small and if there are numerous stones present, often several attempts are needed if this is to be the only means of removal. Often this technique is used to obtain a sample stone for analysis to determine if dietary dissolution is feasible.

Dietary dissolution of the stone is possible with struvite bladder stones - there are several different prescription diets available. These diets work by creating a more acidic urinary environment which dissolves the struvite stones. Antibiotics are needed as long as stones are present in the bladder (bacteria are encrusted within the stone and as the stone dissolves, they are released). On the average, 3 and a half months are needed to dissolve the stone but the diet should be continued for a full month after the stones are no longer visible on radiographs because small stones may be present but not large enough to see. Radiographs are taken monthly to monitor progress.

WHAT SHOULD BE DONE ABOUT OXALATE BLADDER STONES
Since Oxalate stones cannot be dissolved by diet surgery is generally the only option available to get rid of them.

While special diets cannot dissolve existing stones, they do help prevent the development of new stones. Prevention centers on creating a urinary environment with minimal calcium and minimal oxalate as well as creating a urine pH that is not conducive to calcium oxalate formation.

In a perfect world, controlling the bladder stones controls the risk of obstructions, but controlling the bladder stones is not always easy and treating a dog over and over for obstruction becomes expensive. A surgical procedure called a urethrostomy can be performed to prevent obstruction. This procedure involves creating a new urinary opening in the area of the scrotum. This allows urine to be expelled earlier in its course so that passage through the os penis does not occur. The flexibility of the non-bony part of the urethra plus the surgically enlarged urinary opening allows for smaller stones to pass rather than stick in the os penis.
In order to perform this surgery, the male dog must be neutered (which can be done at the time of the urethrostomy). The creation of the new opening usually requires removal of the empty scrotum.
While this is not as good an outcome as preventing stone recurrence at least the emergency obstruction is prevented.

Calcium oxalate bladder stones can be very frustrating. Not only do they tend to recur but following monitoring recommendations involves a visit to the veterinarian's office every two months. It is up to every owner how rigid he or she wishes to be with guidelines but keep in mind that the trouble and expense of a stone surgery weighs against the much less trouble and expense of monitoring.

HOW CAN YOU TELL WHICH STONES A PET HAS?
The only way to know for sure which type of stone a pet has is to remove one and send it to a laboratory for analysis. While an educated guess is better than nothing it does not replace the actual analysis of a stone. (Remember, occasionally a stone of one type forms the center of a stone of another type. A complete analysis is needed to help prevent recurrence.)

Urinary issues can be extremely painful for the pet and extremely frustrating for the owner, but they are not something that should be ignored! What seems like a simple problem can quickly become life-threatening. If your pet is showing any signs of urinary issues please see your veterinarian ASAP!

When most of us think of diseases caused by parasites, we immediately imagine exotic tropical infections occurring in sub-Saharan Africa, Asia, and Central and South America. While it is true that the developing countries of the tropics suffer from the greatest burden of parasitic disease, new data accumulated over the last decade has revealed that we also face a very serious problem with parasitic diseases in the North America.

Parasites can be broken down into two distinct categories: Internal & External Parasites.

Internal parasites refers to parasitic infections that occur within the intestinal tract of the host animal; specifically, roundworm, tapeworm, hookworm and whipworm. Heartworms are also considered internal parasites though they do not inhabit the intestinal tract, instead preferring to reside in the blood vessels of the affected host.

Coccidia and Giardia are two other parasitic infections that can afflict our pets. While not technically considered "worms", coccidia and giardia can cause significant illness in infected pets.

External parasites, such as fleas, reside outside of the host's body but are problematic none the less.

INTERNAL PARASITES

ROUNDWORMS
Roundworms are the most common of the parasitic worms found inside our pets. Almost all dogs and cats become infected with roundworm at some point in their lives, usually as young puppies & kittens. Roundworms may be contracted in different ways, making them easy to spread and hard to control.

Many dogs and cats become infected with roundworms from birth when the mother passes the worms to the puppy or kitten while still in the womb. Roundworms can also develop in a puppy or kitten after it is born when the young pet eats larvated eggs from the environment or drinks worm larvae (young worms) in the mother's milk. Another way roundworms are passed is when roundworm larvae are present in the tissues of a mouse or another small mammal that the puppy or kitten eats.

How will roundworms affect my pet?

Adult roundworms live in the affected pet's intestines. Many pets do not have signs of infection; however, dogs or cats with major roundworm infections, especially puppies & kittens, show weight loss, dull hair, and a potbellied appearance. The dog or cat may cough if the roundworms move into the lungs.

Pet parents may also notice the adult roundworms in their pet's feces (poop) or vomit. They will appear white or light brown in color and may be several inches long.

How do I prevent my pet from getting roundworms?

Because roundworms can enter a pet's body in many different ways, it is essential to keep the dog or cat's living area clean, remove feces or clean the litterbox regularly, and, if possible, prevent the pet from eating wild animals that may carry roundworms.

Can humans be harmed by roundworms?

Roundworms do pose a significant risk to humans. Contact with contaminated soil or feces can result in human ingestion and infection. Roundworm eggs may accumulate in significant numbers in the soil where pets deposit feces.

Children should not be allowed to play where animals have passed feces. Individuals who have direct contact with soil should wear gloves or wash their hands immediately

SUMMARY:

* People can get roundworms from contact with feces or contaminated soil.

* Children and pregnant women are especially at risk.

* If your pet suffers weight loss, dull hair, and a potbellied appearance, it may have a major roundworm infection. You may see roundworms in your pet's feces or vomit.

* Most pets are infected with roundworms at some point in their life. They often show no symptoms.

* Cats & dogs can get roundworms by eating wild animals as well as from feces or a contaminated environment

* Your veterinarian can help you with roundworm prevention, examination, and treatment.

TAPEWORMS
Tapeworms are long, flat worms that attach themselves to a dog or cat’s intestines. A tapeworm body consists of multiple parts, or segments, each with its own reproductive organs. Tapeworm infections are usually diagnosed by finding segments—which appear as small white worms that may look like grains of rice or seeds—around a pet's bum, in a pet’s feces, or where the pet lives and sleeps.

Unlike other parasites, Tapeworms require an intermediate host; that is, they cannot be transmitted directly from pet to pet but require a third host in between. In order for a dog or pet to become infected they must directly ingest the intermediate host and tapeworm the eggs. There are several different species of tapeworms that may infect a dog or cat, each with stage(s) in a different intermediate (in-between) host. Some use fleas as the intermediate host; others use small rodents, such as mice and squirrels, as intermediate hosts. When a dog or cat ingests the flea or rodents the tapeworm gets transmitted and the pet can become infected as the new host.

How will tapeworms affect my pet?

Cats rarely show any signs associated with tapeworm infection. Dogs with tapeworm infections usually are not sick and do not lose weight from the worms. Contrary to popular belief, dogs that “scoot” on their bums are generally doing it for reasons other than having tapeworms, such as blocked or irritated anal sacs; however, scooting can be related to worm infestations as well.

How do I prevent my pet from getting tapeworms?

Keeping your cat or dog from coming in contact with intermediate hosts that contain tapeworm larvae such as fleas, rodents and birds is a great first step. Because fleas are an intermediate host for the most common kind of tapeworm, flea control is also an essential prevention measure.

If you think your pet is infected with tapeworms, call your veterinarian for an appointment to get an accurate diagnosis and safe, effective treatment options.

Can humans be harmed by tapeworms?

Certain tapeworms found in dogs or cats may cause serious disease in humans. Fortunately, these tapeworms (Echinococcus species) are uncommon in North America and are readily treated by prescriptions available from your veterinarian. There are rare reports of Dipylidium (a common tapeworm in pets) infections in children, but these infections are not associated with significant disease.

SUMMARY

* Most tapeworms do not produce obvious symptoms in dogs or cats, other than worm segments on the pet's bum or in feces.

* Dogs & cats can get tapeworms from fleas, mice, or other rodents.

* Flea control is an important step in protecting pets from tapeworms.

* People rarely are affected by tapeworms.

HOOKWORM
Similar to tapeworms and roundworms, hookworms are intestinal parasites that live in the digestive system of cats and dogs. The hookworm attaches to the lining of the intestinal wall and feeds on the pet's blood. Its eggs are ejected into the digestive tract and pass into the environment through an infected pet's feces.

Larvae (young hookworms) that hatch from hookworm eggs live in the soil and can infect a dog or cat simply through contact with and penetration of the skin and through eating the hookworm larvae. It is common for hookworms to infect the host through a pet’s belly or feet as well as to be ingested during routine licking (cleaning.)

How will hookworms affect my pet?

Hookworms will cause bleeding into the intestinal tract resulting in internal blood loss. They may cause death in young puppies and kittens. Blood transfusions may be necessary to keep young animals alive long enough for medications that kill the worms to take effect. Adult pets may also suffer blood loss from hookworms and can have diarrhea and show weight loss.

How do I prevent my pet from getting hookworms?

Similar to steps for prevention of other intestinal parasites, it is essential to keep your pet's surroundings clean and prevent the pet from being in contaminated areas, if possible.

Can humans be harmed by hookworms?

Some hookworms can infect humans by penetrating the skin. This is most likely to occur when walking barefoot on the beach or other areas where pets deposit feces. Infection usually results in an itching sensation at the point where the larvae enter the skin and visible tracks on the skin. The condition is easily treated but can cause mild to extreme discomfort in the affected person.

SUMMARY

* Hookworms can cause blood loss, weight loss, diarrhea or death especially in young puppies or kittens.

* Hookworms live in a pet's digestive system and must be diagnosed by a veterinarian.

* Keeping a pet's environment clean and keeping the pet away from contaminated areas are the best steps for prevention.

* Humans can be infected by hookworm from dogs or cats.

WHIPWORMS
The whipworm is one of the four most common intestinal parasites of dogs. Whipworms reside in the cecum, which is inside the dog’s body where the small intestine and large intestine meet.

Dogs become infected with whipworms by swallowing infective whipworm eggs in soil or other substances that may contain dog feces.

How will whipworms affect my dog?

Dogs that are infected with a few whipworms may not have any signs of infection. More severe infections can cause bloody diarrhea. If an infected dog is not treated, then severe whipworm infection can cause serious disease and even death.

How do I prevent my dog from getting whipworms?

Whipworm infections can be prevented by removing feces regularly from the yard. Because whipworms are sometimes more difficult to diagnose than other intestinal parasites, it is important that you take your dog to see a veterinarian at least annually for a properly conducted fecal examination (test of your dog’s feces).

What about cats?

Cats rarely, if ever, become infected with whipworms. Most often the eggs are ingested and then shed without any apparent illness.

SUMMARY
* Dogs with mild whipworm infections may show no symptoms, but whipworms can cause bloody diarrhea, and if not treated, lead to death.

* Dogs get whipworms from soil or other substances containing dog feces.

* Keep your yard clean of dog feces to protect your dog.

* Cat's are not usual hosts for whipworm

HEARTWORMS
Heartworms are common in dogs throughout North America. They are among the most damaging parasites in dogs, though they have been 100 percent preventable for decades. Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes and, once mature, take residence in the heart and large vessels of the lungs. The adult female heartworm can measure from 9 to 16 inches in length. The males are a little more than half as long and are easily identified by your veterinarian because of their corkscrew-like appearance.

How will heartworms affect my dog?

Heartworm infection can affect many different organs of the dog—heart, lungs, kidneys, and liver, for example—so symptoms may be varied. A veterinarian may suspect that an animal has been infected if an active animal tires easily or shows shortness of breath or coughing; however, one or more tests conducted by your veterinarian may be necessary to determine whether or not your dog has heartworms.

The heartworm larvae deposited by the feeding mosquito eventually migrate to the chambers of the heart or into the vessels of the lungs. Once in the heart, the worms can affect blood flow throughout the body.

How do I prevent my dog from getting heartworms?

Heartworms have been found in dogs in almost all regions of North America so all dogs are at risk, even those animals that primarily live indoors. However, heartworms are preventable.

Ask your veterinarian about heartworm prevention. Preventive treatment should begin at 6 or 8 weeks of age in puppies and after tests have been conducted in older dogs to determine if your dog has already been infected. If your dog does have heartworms, your veterinarian can advise you about treatment options.

Can humans contract heartworm disease?

Isolated cases of human infection have been reported, however, the heartworm is generally not considered a risk to human health.

What about cats?

In the past it was thought that cats were safe from the harmful effects of heartworm; however, recent data shows that cats can, in fact, become infected. Cats are not the preferred host, it seems, for heartworms, however infection is still possible. The symptoms that cats show after infection vary from those of their canine companions and there are still no reliable tests to detect heartworm early (as in dogs). Cats that venture outdoors are the highest risk for contracting heartworm and should be on a preventative medication to help prevent infection.

SUMMARY

* If left untreated, heartworm disease can result in death.

*Heartworms can grow to 16 inches in length and there can be as many as 250 heartworms in a dog's vital organs.

* An infected dog can have no symptoms until heartworms are well-established.

* Over 300,000 dogs in North America are infected with heartworms each year.

* It is difficult, especially for the dog, to treat heartworms once established. It is much easier and less expensive to prevent heartworms than to treat them.

COCCIDIA
Coccidia are tiny single-celled parasites that live in the wall of a dog or cat’s intestine. They are found more often in puppies & kittens, but they can also infect older dogs and cats.

Pets become infected by swallowing soil that contains coccidia or other substances in the environment that may contain feces. Also, it is possible that rodents could eat the coccidia and contract a “resting” stage of the parasite. Pets that are old enough to hunt could then be infected when they hunt and eat these animals. Cats are more likely to get infected with coccidia by this method than dogs are.

How will coccidia affect my pet?

Coccidiosis, the disease caused by coccidia, may not cause any signs in adult pets but is usually more serious in puppies or kittens. The most common sign of coccidiosis is diarrhea. More severe infections can cause bloody diarrhea. Severe infections, especially in puppies & kittens, can be deadly.

How do I prevent my pet from getting coccidia?

Coccidial infections can be prevented by removing your dog’s feces regularly from your yard or other areas where the dog goes to the bathroom & cleaning your cat's litterbox frequently. Because coccidia are found most often in puppies & kittens, it is important to have young pets examined for the parasite as soon as possible. Your veterinarian can perform a fecal test to diagnose coccidiosis. If your pet is infected with coccidia, your veterinarian is able to give it effective medications.

Can my cat get coccidia from my dog?

A dog infected with coccidia cannot pass the infection to cats and vice versa. Coccidial infections occur only by swallowing the coccidia in soil or feces.

SUMMARY
* Coccidia infection can cause diarrhea, and can be fatal, especially in puppies & kittens. However, many pets show no symptoms.

* Pets get coccidia from swallowing infected soil or substances containing feces.

*Removing dog feces from your yard and the dog's environment and keeping your cat's litterbox clean is the best protection.

*Your veterinarian can test, and treat if necessary, your dog for coccidia. Puppies should be tested regularly.

GIARDIA
Giardia is a single-celled parasite that lives in a dog or cat's intestines. It infects older dogs & cats but more frequently infects puppies and kittens. Pets become infected when they swallow Giardia that may be present in water or other substances that have been soiled with feces. While cats and kittens can get Giardia, this parasite mostly affects dogs and puppies.

How will Giardia affect my pet?

Many pets infected with Giardia do not get any disease. Giardiasis, the disease caused by Giardia infection, usually results in diarrhea. Some animals with giardiasis may also throw up. Having giardiasis a long time can cause weight loss; generally poor condition; and even death, when the disease is serious.

How do I prevent my pet from getting Giardia?

The best way to prevent Giardia infection is to make sure that your dog or cat has safe, clean drinking water. It is important not to allow your pet to drink water from areas where other animals have left their feces.

To prevent spreading Giardia (and other parasites), pick up the feces (poop) left by your dog immediately and place it in the trash and be sure to keep your cat's litterbox clean. Be sure to avoid contact with the feces by using gloves, a bag over your hand, or a scooping device.

Can humans be harmed by Giardia?

Giardia is a common cause of diarrhea in people, and there is a chance that Giardia from dogs and cats could infect people and cause disease. For this reason, if you think your pet may be infected, it is important to see your veterinarian for appropriate tests and safe, effective treatment.

SUMMARY
* Giardia in dogs & cats can cause diarrhea, vomiting, weight loss, poor condition, or death. However, many infected pets show no symptoms.

* People can get giardia, causing diarrhea or other problems

* Dogs & cats get giardia from water that has been soiled with feces. Give your dog safe, clean water to drink and keep your cat's litterbox clean.

* Pick up your dog's feces immediately, avoiding contact with your skin.

FLEAS
Parasites are “freeloaders” that live in or on another creature. Fleas are the most common external parasite found on dogs and cats. Although fleas are more likely to be a problem during warm-weather months, they can also cause problems during cooler seasons due to their ability to continue their life cycle indoors

How will fleas affect my pet?

You will probably first notice the effects of fleas when your pet repeatedly scratches and chews. On occasion you may actually see tiny brown fleas moving quickly through your pet's haircoat. Constant scratching may lead to visible patches of hair loss and reddened, irritated skin. Fleas may also cause skin allergies and can transmit other parasites, such as tapeworms, to your dog or cat.

How do I check my pet for fleas?

Although your pet may be infested with fleas, they are not always easy to find. One of the best methods for checking your dog or cat for fleas is to look for flea dirt (actually flea feces) in your pet’s haircoat.

To check for flea dirt, briskly comb or rub a section of the hair on your pet’s back while they are sitting or lying on a white piece of paper. If your pet has fleas, black flecks that look like dirt (as a result, we use the term “flea dirt”) will fall onto the paper. If you transfer these black flecks to a damp piece of paper, in a short time they will appear red or rust-colored. The red color results because blood sucked from your pet is passed in the flea’s waste matter. If the dirt specks do not turn red, then they are probably “regular” dirt.

How do I prevent my dog from getting fleas?

Indoors
To control fleas, you must stop them from reproducing. Carpets, pet bedding, furniture, and other indoor areas where your pet spends much time will contain the highest number of developing fleas. Frequent vacuuming of these areas and frequent washing of your pet’s bedding can greatly reduce the number of developing fleas inside your home.

Outdoors
Fleas also develop in shady, protected outdoor areas. These outdoor spots can easily be identified as the places where your pet likes to rest and relax. Remember, if your pet does not feel comfortable spending time in a particular area, then neither will fleas. Pets and fleas typically like the same locations.

Steps to Take

Both indoor and outdoor areas can be sprayed with insecticides to eliminate fleas, if necessary. Treatment of your home or yard is best performed by a trained pest control expert.

Most flea problems can be managed by treating and preventing fleas on your pet. It is important to keep in mind that flea problems may be different from pet to pet or between households, and each problem may require a special method of control.

See your veterinarian for advice on your specific situation. Your veterinarian can recommend safe and effective products for controlling fleas and can determine exactly what you need. Your veterinarian can also determine whether you should consult with a pest control specialist about treating your home and yard.

SUMMARY
* You may see fleas in your home or on your pet, or simply see your dog or cat scratching and chewing itself.

* You can test for fleas by looking for "flea dirt".

* Frequent vacuuming and/or washing of pet bedding, carpets and furniture can help control fleas.

* Cats and dogs can share fleas. (NOTE: Never use a product intended for dogs on your cat!)

It may not be obvious if your dog or cat has parasites, and yet people can be infected by some of them. For this reason, it is a good idea to have a regular program of preventative treatment starting with kittens & puppies at three weeks of age. Dogs and cats should have fecal (stool) exams 2 to 4 times in their first year of life and once or twice a year thereafter. The best way to control parasites is to be sure to be sure to use a parasite control product recommended by your veterinarian as required.

Have you taken inventory of your medicine cabinets lately? Are you properly storing lawn and garden pesticide containers? When you tidy up around the house, do you put food, liquor and tobacco products safely out of harm's way? These precautions are second nature to households with children, but homes with animals must be just as secure.

PAIN RELIEVERS
Aspirin and other pain relievers are in almost every home, and these poisonings can be severe. When aspirin is prescribed for animals, the dosage must be strictly followed. Too much aspirin can lead to anemia and bleeding stomach ulcers. Ibuprofen and naproxen will cause painful gastrointestinal problems. One 200mg ibuprofen tablet is toxic to a small dog.
Never give acetaminophen to a cat or dog. The drug affect cats oxygen in the blood and it produces severe depression. It also produces abdominal pain in dogs. If not quickly eliminated from the body, just two extra-strength tablets in 24 hours will most likely kill a small pet. Clinical signs in cats develop within one or two hours and include excessive salivation, paw and facial swelling, depression, and ash-gray gums. In dogs watch for anorexia, vomiting, depression, and abdominal pain. High doses are usually fatal.

PESTICIDES
There are neurological poisons found in lawn and garden pesticides, insecticidal aerosols, dips and shampoos products. Signs of toxicity include apprehension, excessive salivation, urination, defecation, vomiting and diarrhea, tremors, seizures, hyper-excitability or depression and pinpoint pupils. If an animal has absorbed enough of any neurological toxin, sudden death may be the only sign.

Coumarins, most recognizable as D-Con, a rat and mouse poison, affect the ability of the blood to clot. Mice that consume the poisoned grain essentially bleed to death. Your pets will be affected the same way, and the severity of the symptoms often depends on the amount ingested. Cats that eat poisoned mice can also become ill if the levels of poison are high enough. If you find an empty box of rat poison bring your pet into the veterinarian immediately. Tell them about the recent exposure so that they can implement the proper monitoring protocols. Additionally, if you see labored breathing, anorexia, nosebleeds, bloody urine or feces and pinpoint hemorrhages on the gums, take your pet to the veterinarian immediately.

GARBAGE GUT
Garbage is not often regarded as poisonous. However, toxins are produced by bacteria fermenting the garbage. Rapid and severe signs include vomiting, bloody diarrhea, painful abdominal distention, shivering, shock, and collapse.

WHAT IS POISONOUS?
Here is a quick reference guide to the more common house and garden plants and foods that are toxic to most all animals and children. If you have these plants or foods, you need not dispose of them-just keep them away from pets and children.
* substances are especially dangerous and can be fatal

Cardiovascular Toxins
Avocado (leaves, seeds, stem, fruit, skin)* in birds and pocket pets
Azalea (entire rhododendron family)
Autumn crocus (Colchicum autumnale)*
Bleeding heart*
Castor bean*
Foxglove (Digitalis)*
Hyacinth bulbs*
Hydrangea*
Japanese pieris*
Kalanchoe*
Lily-of-the-valley*
Milkweed*
Mistletoe berries*
Mountain laurel
Oleander*
Rosary Pea*
Tobacco Products
Yew*

Gastrointestinal Toxins
Avocado (leaves, seeds, stem, fruit, skin) in dogs
Amaryllis bulb*
Azalea (entire rhododendron family)
Autumn crocus (Colchicum autumnale)*
Bird of Paradise
Bittersweet
Boxwood
Buckeye
Bulbs (most kinds)
Buttercup (Ranunculus)
Caladium
Castor bean*
Chocolate *
Chrysanthemum (a natural source of pyrethrins)
Clematis
Crocus bulb
Croton (Codiaeum species)
Cyclamen bulb
Dumb cane (Dieffenbachia)*
Eggplant
Elephant’s ear
English ivy (All Hedera species of ivy)
Hyacinth bulbs
Holly berries
Iris corms
Lily (bulbs of most species)
Macadamia nuts
Mistletoe berries
Narcissus, daffodil (Narcissus)
Onions*
Pencil cactus/plant
Potato (leaves and stem)
Rosary Pea*
Spurge (Euphorbia species)
Tomatoes (leaves and stem)

Respiratory Toxin
Chinese sacred or heavenly bamboo*
English ivy
Neurological Toxins
Alcohol (all beverages, ethanol, methanol, isopropyl)
Amaryllis bulb*
Azalea (entire rhododendron family)
Bleeding heart*
Buckeye
Caffeine
Castor bean*
Chocolate*
Choke cherry, unripe berries*
Chrysanthemum (natural source of pyrethrins)
Crocus bulb
Delphinium, larkspur, monkshood*
Eggplant
Jimson weed*
Lupine species
Macadamia nuts
Marijuana (Cannabis)*
Morning glory*
Moldy foods
Tobacco products
Potato (leaves and stem)
Tomatoes (leaves and stem)

Kidney/Organ Failure Toxins
Amanita mushrooms
Anthurium*
Asiatic lily
Begonia*
Calla lily*
Castor beans
Day lily
Elephant’s ear
Easter lily
Grapes/raisons
Jack-in-the-pulpit*
Lantana*
Oak*
Rhubarb leaves*
Scheffelera*
Shamrock*
Star-gazer Lilly

Toxins that affect the blood
Onions
Garlic

If you suspect your animal may have ingested any of the substances on this list or if your pet shows any abnormal behavior (vomiting, diarrhea, staggering, etc), you should contact your veterinarian immediately. Take a sample of the suspected toxin and its packaging with you to the veterinarian.

Remember: Keeping a toxic plant on a table may not be enough to keep it out of reach for a cat that can climb and jump. Large dogs can also stand with forelegs up on table edges to reach plants that would normally be considered well out of reach.

SPECIFIC PLANTS AND THE THREATS THEY POSE

Note: This is not an all-inclusive listing since some people bring outdoor trees and plants (that are not generally considered house plants) into their homes. Some of these listed below are only house plants when they are brought into the home for special occasions, but are possible sources of toxic exposure. Though plants can be classified as very, moderately, or minimally toxic, true toxicity can vary according to the species ingesting it, the number of leaves ingested, or whether other parts of the plants are more or less toxic and whether these are ingested also.

Candelabra Cactus
Crown of Thorns
Moderately toxic
These are members of the spurge family. The ingestion of leaves generally results in mild to moderate digestive upsets including excess saliva, vomiting, and diarrhea.

Dieffenbachia (also called Dumbcane)
Moderately toxic
This family of plants cause local irritation because of oxalic acid salts in the plant.
Roots, leaves, and stem ingestion can cause mouth irritation, extra saliva production and on rare occasions, diarrhea.

English Ivy
Minimally toxic
Leaves and berries may cause digestive system irritation, diarrhea, breathing difficulties and rarely, coma or even death.

Holly
Moderately toxic
This ornamental plant is a common Christmas fixture and ingestion is most commonly associated with signs such as digestive upset and nervous system depression. They have some of the same toxic components as chocolate (caffeine, theobromine).

Hydrangea
Very toxic
Contains a cyanide-type toxin, a very rapid acting poison leading to oxygen starvation and very quick onset of symptoms including death.

Lily: Easter Lily, tiger lily, Japanese showy lilies, day lilies and others in the Lilium family (Liliaceae)
Very toxic
Will cause kidney failure and death in cats.
This is a real concern for cats since only a small amount of ingested leaf can lead to serious problems. Vomiting, dull attitude, and appetite loss are the first signs generally noted. Treatment should begin immediately.
Note: Peace lilies and Calla lilies are in other plant families.

Mistletoe
Very toxic
A Christmas decoration, the American Mistletoe produces quite severe irritation of the digestive tract, as well as whole body symptoms including low heart rate and temperature, difficulty breathing, unsteadiness, excess thirst, and sometimes seizures, coma, and even death.

Oleander
Very toxic
Even small amounts can kill. All parts of the plant are very poisonous and result in digestive system irritation, vomiting and diarrhea, heart irregularities, depression, and often death. Though leaves are bitter when fresh, wilted and dead ones are a bit more palatable and are still toxic when dry.

Philodendron
Moderately toxic
This family of plants cause local irritation because of oxalic acid salts in the plant.
Roots, leaves and stem ingestion can cause mouth irritation, extra saliva production, and sometimes diarrhea when ingested.

Poinsettia
Minimally to moderately toxic
These are members of the spurge family. The ingestion of leaves generally results in mild to moderate digestive upsets. Signs include excess saliva, vomiting, and diarrhea.

Rhododendron (Azelia)
Moderately toxic
Leaves particularly may cause digestive pain and irritation, abnormal heart function, tremors, and perhaps seizures, coma and even death when ingested. More commonly found outdoors than indoors.

Catnip
Minimally toxic
Catnip has very minimal toxic effects; just mostly the familiar silly effects (wild, or disoriented (drunk appearance), so you can go ahead and allow cats to chew this plant in moderation, grown either in the household or fresh from the garden! Note that vomiting and diarrhea could result if very large amounts are ingested in a short interval.

Grapes and Raisins
Currently, it is uncertain whether these are toxic, but there are a few reports of possible kidney failure in dogs resulting from LARGE amounts of grapes and raisins being ingested. Until more information is available, it would be prudent to avoid exposure to large quantities of either.

KEEPING YOUR PET SAFE
Ten very simple rules to follow:

1. Be aware of the plants you have in your house and in your pet's yard. The ingestion of azalea, oleander, mistletoe, sago palm, Easter lily or yew plant material by an animal could be fatal.

2. When cleaning your house, never allow your pet access to the area where cleaning agents are used or stored. Cleaning agents have a variety of properties. Some may only cause a mild stomach upset, while others could cause severe burns of the tongue, mouth and stomach.

3. When using rat or mouse baits, ant or roach traps, or snail and slug baits, place the products in areas that are inaccessible to your animals. Most baits contain sweet smelling, inert ingredients, such as jelly, peanut butter and sugars, which can be very attractive to your pet.

4. Never give your animal any medications unless under the direction of your veterinarian. Many medications that are used safely in humans can be deadly when used inappropriately. One extra strength acetaminophen tablet (500mg) can kill a seven-pound cat.

5. Keep all prescription and over-the-counter drugs out of your pets' reach, preferably in closed cabinets. Pain killers, cold medicines, anti-cancer drugs, anti-depressants, vitamins and diet pills are common examples of human medications that could be potentially lethal, even in small dosages. One regular strength ibuprofen (200mg) can cause stomach ulcers in a ten-pound dog.

6. Never leave chocolates unattended. Approximately one-half ounce or less of baking chocolate per pound of body weight can cause problems. Even small amounts can cause pancreatic problems.

7. Many common household items have been shown to be lethal in certain species. Miscellaneous items that are highly toxic, even in low quantities, include pennies (high concentration of zinc), mothballs (contain naphthaleneor paradichlorobenzene - one or two balls can be life threatening in most species), potpourri oils, fabric softener sheets, automatic dish detergents (contain cationic detergents which can cause corrosive lesions), batteries (contain acids or alkali which can also cause corrosive lesions), homemade play-dough (contains high quantity of salt), winter heat source agents like hand or foot warmers (contain high levels of iron), cigarettes, coffee grounds, and alcoholic drinks.

8. All automotive products such as oil, gasoline and antifreeze, should be stored in areas away from pets. As little as one teaspoon of antifreeze (ethylene glycol) can be deadly in a seven-pound cat, and less than one tablespoon can be lethal to a 20-pound dog.

9. Before buying or using flea products on your pet or in your household, contact your veterinarian to discuss what types of products are recommended for your pet. Read ALL information before using a product on your animal or in your home. Always follow label instructions. When a product is labeled, "for use in dogs only," this means that the product should NEVER be applied to cats or other pets. Also, when using a fogger or a house spray, make sure to remove all pets from the area for the time period specified on the container. If you are uncertain about the usage of any product, contact the manufacturer or your veterinarian to clarify the directions BEFORE use of the product.

10. When treating your lawn or garden with fertilizers, herbicides or insecticides, always keep your animals away from the area until it dries completely. Discuss usage of products with the manufacturer before using. Always store such products in an area that will ensure no possible pet exposure.

Decades ago in veterinary medicine, it was thought that animals did not feel pain or that they perceived pain differently than humans. In those days, pain was actually thought to be good for an injured or sick animal because it limited movement and it was believed that pain helped keep animals sufficiently quiet in order to heal. Today there is a better understanding of how pain develops. We now know that animals and humans have similar neural pathways in the brain for the development, transmission, and modulation of pain. Because cats and dogs have neural pathways and neurotransmitters that are similar, if not identical, to those of humans, we can assume that our furry friends feel pain the same way we do.

Nowadays, veterinarians have a better understanding of how different medications work to treat pain and how a combination of therapies can benefit their patients. We now understand that untreated pain decreases quality of life in all patients, and prolongs recovery from surgery, injury, or illness. Modern pain management techniques allow people—and now pets—to live more comfortable lives. Preventing and managing pain has become a fundamental part of quality and compassionate patient care in veterinary medicine.

WHY IS PAIN MANAGEMENT SO IMPORTANT?

Pain management has become an important issue in veterinary medicine. Truth be told, practicing proper pain management helps everyone: It benefits the pet through improved quality of life and less medical complications; it benefits pet-parents by enhancing the human-animal bond, and believe it or not, it benefits your veterinary team! Modern approaches to pain management allow your veterinary team to more effectively fulfill their responsibility to relieve animal suffering as pledged in the veterinarian’s oath.

As advocates for all pets, your veterinary team has the responsibility to recognize, assess, prevent, and treat pain. In fact, pain is now considered to be the fourth vital sign -- after temperature, pulse, and respiration -- and should be evaluated in all patients regardless of the reason for visiting their veterinarian.

Managing pain well requires looking for its signs and asking the right questions. Because our pets may not show obvious signs of pain, recognizing the degree of pain and the amount of suffering associated with it can be a challenge. Effective pain management reduces stress and increases a sense of well-being, which may even help your furry friend live longer!

ACUTE VS. CHRONIC PAIN

Pain can be categorized as either Acute or Chronic:

Acute pain comes on suddenly as a result of an injury, surgery, inflammation or infection. It can be extremely uncomfortable for your pet and it may limit their mobility. The good news is that it's usually temporary and generally goes away once the condition that causes it is treated.

Chronic pain is long lasting and usually slow to develop. Some of the more common sources of chronic pain are age-related disorders such as arthritis, but can also result from illnesses such as cancer or bone disease. This pain may be the hardest to deal with because it can go on for years, or for an animal's entire lifetime. Also, because it develops slowly, some animals may gradually learn to tolerate the pain and live with it. This can make chronic pain difficult to detect.

LEARNING TO RECOGNIZE PAIN

When we have pain, we complain; however, animals instinctively hide pain so we generally don't hear a peep out of our pets until the pain is so bad they cannot hide it anymore. So how do you know when your pet's in pain?

Because our furry friends aren't able to tell us when something is wrong, it's important for you, their pet-parent, to take note of any change in their behavior. Any of the following signs may be your pet's way of saying "I hurt":

* Being unusually quiet, listless, restless, or unresponsive

* Whining, whimpering, howling, or constantly meowing

* Biting

* Constantly licking or chewing at a particular part of the body

* Acting funny and out of character, either aggressively or submissively

* Flattening ears against the head

* Having trouble sleeping or eating

* Seeking a lot more affection than usual

* Unable to get comfortable (constantly changes positions to find the most comfortable position)

If you suspect your pet might be hurting, consult your veterinary team for help. Your veterinarian will help you figure out the problem and discuss the available options. Be prepared to answer questions about your pet's behavior, activity level and tolerance for being handled. Your furry friend’s mobility is also a crucial topic. Does Rover now have a hard time getting up or walking up/down stairs (these were never a problem before)? Does Fluffy no longer jump up on to the furniture or have a hard time hopping back down?

Many animals, especially cats, naturally disguise signs of pain to protect themselves from predators. However, the lack of obvious signs does not mean they aren't experiencing pain.

If the injury, illness or experience is one that sounds painful to you, go with the assumption that it may also hurt your pet, and get to your veterinarian.

WHAT YOU CAN DO TO HELP A PAINFUL PET

First and foremost, a complete physical exam by your veterinarian is essential. An exam may include lab and blood tests, X-rays, etc. Your Veterinarian will then recommend a treatment protocol taking your pet's age, health and lifestyle into account. Ask your veterinarian about simple things you can do at home to help keep your pet comfortable and to monitor whether the pain level is changing.

MMMMMM....MASSAGE
Massaging your pet from head to toe will help relax and soothe him or her. This organized form of petting is a great way to bond with your furry friend as well as to notice any unusual bumps, scrapes or bruises on the body. It is important that you are gentle and do not apply pressure over the spinal area. If your pet shows any signs of discomfort, discontinue massage immediately and seek veterinary advice.

EXERCISE CAUTION
Watch for changes in how your pet responds to exercise. If they are acting sluggish, you may need to reduce their activity or it may mean that chronic pain is developing. A pet's ability to exercise will depend on their health so make sure your pet has a thorough veterinary physical before starting a new exercise program.

FOOD: FRIEND OR FOE?
Carefully monitor your pet’s diet to ensure he or she is not adding unneeded pounds. Maintaining a healthy diet will improve your pet’s pain level by managing weight, regularity and physical health. Specialty diets now exist that can help your arthritic pet feel better!

OH - OMEGA!
Omega fatty acids have natural anti-inflammatory properties that can be a great addition to your pet's pain management plan. Glucosamine and Green Lipped Muscle have also shown to be very helpful in managing arthritic pain. Ask your veterinarian if supplements would be helpful for your painful pet!

TREATING PAIN

There is a variety of pain medications currently available for pets. Aside from pill form, many medications come in easily administered forms such as liquids, skin patches or gels. There are also new analgesic (pain-reducing) products to help treat your pet after an injurious trauma or to help treat chronic pain. Traditionally, steroids have been used for anti-inflammatory purposes and to decrease pain. Although effective, steroids generally aren't used for prolonged periods as they can have adverse side effects (strictly adhering to your veterinarian’s instructions is important).

A decade ago, few drugs were available to treat pets in pain. Today, veterinarian-prescribed pain medications offer relief, helping control symptoms such as inflammation, swelling, stiffness and joint pain. In addition to providing pain control, these medications help pets heal better and faster!

Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS), such as Metacam or Rimadyl, are most commonly used for the symptomatic relief of arthritic pain in geriatric pets and after routine or specialty surgeries. The Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA) Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM) have approved specific NSAIDs for use in pets. Ask your veterinarian which pain reliever is right for your painful pet.

It is very important that you do not give your pet any medication without consulting your veterinarian. Certain painkillers, including acetaminophen (found in Tylenol) or combinations of medications can be DEADLY to pets in very small doses.

PAIN MANAGEMENT AFTER SURGERY - OPTIONAL???

Pain management is extremely important after surgeries. Although all animals experience pain, the way a pet expresses pain can vary with age and species, as well as among individuals. Young puppies and kittens have developed neural pathways for pain transmission, but both newborns and senior animals may not express their pain as plainly as other animals. Adult cats and dogs also tend to hide pain as a protective mechanism.

Some pets experience lingering pain following a surgery or injury, whereas other pets seem to return back to normal quite quickly. Just as individual humans have different pain tolerances and thresholds, our pets' responses to surgery and injury are unique to each individual. Individual pets undergoing the same procedure may experience or express their pain differently. As well, an individual pet can experience more than one type of pain at any given time. For example, a senior pet with arthritis that undergoes surgery to remove a mass may experience musculoskeletal pain due to positioning during the procedure, in addition to the pain associated with the surgery itself.

If your pet has undergone a painful procedure, when you're finally able to bring him or her home, the best thing you can do is consistently follow your veterinary team's instructions carefully. If your veterinarian prescribes an analgesic for your pet, give it as directed. If any problems should develop, contact your veterinarian immediately.

As with any medical condition, your veterinarian is your best ally in identifying and managing your pet's pain. Pain management requires a team effort in order to have a happier and healthier companion.

PAINFUL SURGERIES:

Mild to Moderate Pain:

* Lump Removal

* Dental procedures - no extractions; mild to moderate tartar and gingivitis

* Superficial lacerations

* Cystitis (inflammation of bladder)

* Otitis (inflammation in ear)

* Dermatitis (inflammation of skin)

* Abcesses (including anal gland abscess)

Moderate Pain:

* Laparotomy (any surgery that opens the abdomen such as Spays and Exploratory surgery)

* Inguinal hernia repair

* Mass removal (if extensive, pain level is higher)

* Soft-tissue injuries (bite wounds)

* Enucleation (removal of eye)

* Dental procedures - some extractions; moderate to severe tartar and gingivitis

Moderate to Severe Pain:

* Osteoarthritis

* Limb amputation

* Trauma (orthopedic; extensive soft tissue damage)

* Burns

* Frostbite

* Bone cancer

* Glaucoma

* Corneal abrasion

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:

"MY PET IS STILL EATING AND DRINKING SO HE MUST BE FINE, RIGHT?"

Not right. This is a common misconception based on outdated pain theories. Let's look at a scenario:

Suppose you broke your leg and were prohibited from getting it fixed -- how would you react? You would most certainly be in a lot of pain, but knowing there was no relief in sight, you would have no choice but to continue on as best as possible. Sure, you'd be sore, but you would probably still eat. You would most likely still be thirsty and drink. And you'd probably still make an effort to get to work and socialize to the best of your ability. Does this mean you feel fine?? Of course not! Just because a pet is eating and drinking doesn't mean they are not in a great deal of pain.

"IT'S JUST A ROUTINE OPERATION - IS PAIN MEDICATION REALLY THAT IMPORTANT?"

While the removal of wisdom teeth in people would be considered routine, most cannot imagine leaving the dentist’s office without something extra for pain. Your pet has a nervous system almost identical to ours and feels pain in the same way we do. While a spay or neuter surgery is a common and safe procedure, no surgery is, by definition, “routine” when it comes to pain. Think about it: Would you like to have a hysterectomy without any pain medicine?? Probably not, so why should we expect our pets to?

In addition to making your pet more comfortable, proper pain management is essential for your pet down the road. Research shows that pets who experience untreated pain can develop long-term physical changes in their brain's neural pathways. This means that a cat that undergoes a declaw or a dog that is neutered has the potential to develop long-term pain issues if the pain is inadequately managed during the healing process. This is why effective and proactive postoperative pain management is essential!

"MY PET ONLY HAD ONE TOOTH PULLED AND HE WAS ASLEEP FOR IT SO WHY BOTHER WITH PAIN MEDICATION?"

If you've ever experienced tooth pain you can appreciate how miserable an experience it can be. Removing a tooth can be a complex procedure which causes considerable injury to the surrounding gums and tissue. While the tooth might be gone, the spot left behind is inflamed and very sore. Even though your pet was asleep when the tooth came out, it doesn't mean that the pain isn't there when they wake up. Think about the last time you were at the dentist getting work done. Sure, as long as you were 'frozen' you felt great! But the moment that freezing wore off I'm sure you were reaching for a bottle of pain medication. Your pet deserves the same pain control!

"I'VE CALLED AROUND TO DIFFERENT HOSPITALS AND NOT ALL OF THEM PRESCRIBE PAIN MEDICINE AFTER SURGERY, SO IT MUST NOT REALLY BE NECESSARY, RIGHT?"

Unfortunately not all veterinary hospitals are created equally and many still subscribe to the older pain theories. Many hospitals will only offer pain medication for specialty surgeries while others will only offer it when requested to do so by the pet's parents. Surgeries such as spays and neuters can be considered a 'competitive service' which means many hospitals will forgo pain medicine for your pet in an effort to make the procedure more affordable. Though pain medicine isn't free it is a worthwhile expense that plays a critical role in the recovery and ongoing health of your furry friend.

In human medicine you have to be your own health advocate and do your homework before you walk into your doctor's office so you know what questions to ask. The same theory should hold true for your pet's health -- your pet is relying on you to ask the questions that he/she cannot ask!

“MY PET ISN'T REALLY IN PAIN -- HE JUST LIMPS ONCE IN A WHILE. ISN'T THAT JUST FROM OLD AGE?”

Think about the actual act of 'limping' -- what is the purpose of this movement? In humans, we will limp in an effort to put less pressure on a leg or joint that is SORE; to reduce PAIN while we move around. Why would we think our pets would limp for any other reason?? Our pets do not ‘slow down’ because they get old, they slow down because of some of the conditions that occur as they get older. Even reluctance to walk up stairs may be a sign of pain. Remove the pain and it can put spring back into your pet’s step again! Remember that animals can’t always tell us when they are in pain. Treating the pain to see if “old pet” behaviour improves is often the best way to see if pain is present.

“AFTER THE SURGERY MY DOG CAME RUNNING OUT TO GREET ME WITH HIS TAIL WAGGING - A DOG IN PAIN WOULDN’T DO THAT, RIGHT?”

A dog’s positive response to seeing you should not be interpreted as a sign that he or she is pain free. Rather it is a sign that your pet has missed you and is excited to see you again! The thrill of playing with you again may temporarily distract your pet from his or her pain but that doesn't mean it does not exist!

“IS THERE SOMETHING THAT DOESN’T COST SO MUCH? CAN’T I JUST GIVE MY PET ASPIRIN?”

There are very few long-term pain management solutions proven to be safe and effective for your pet. Your pet cannot be given aspirin or other human medications as they can lead to serious side effects including stomach ulceration, bleeding and death. The only safe medication for your pet is one that has been proven safe for use in pets and prescribed by your veterinarian.

“DOES MY PET REALLY NEED A ‘DRUG’? IS THERE SOMETHING MORE ‘NATURAL’ THAT WE CAN TRY?”

While some natural remedies might be useful in helping a chronic pain condition, none have the proven track record of medically tested and regulated medications. While it might be useful to try some of these remedies to help down the road, the most important thing is to stop the pain for your pet now, and a veterinary licensed pain medication is the best tool we have available to do that. Keep in mind: Natural products may be associated with side effects but because they are unregulated there is less information available on them.

There is undoubtedly something special about cats. They exude an air of mystery and they have a personality all their own. Whether it is their unique purr or their clever antics, something about the little critters seems to climb right into your heart! But when it comes to understanding your curious kitty things can get a little tricky which is why this month's SVHNews is spot lighting our favorite Feline Friends and finding out what makes them tick!

In contrast cats are solitary hunters of small prey. This strategy resulted in important differences in cat behavior, which has been carefully studied. We can use our understanding of cat behavior to improve the environment of the indoor cats that share our lives.

NOCTURNAL CREATURES?
Cats do not have the daily sleep-wake cycle that we and many other animals have. Rather, they sleep and wake frequently throughout the day and night. This is because cats in the wild need to hunt as many as 20 small prey each day; they must be able to rest between each hunt so they are ready to pounce quickly when prey approaches. This explains why our cats seem to sleep so much during the day when we are awake, and spend so much time awake at night when we need to sleep! We may conclude that cats are nocturnal creatures, but it only seems that way because their sleep/wake cycle is so different from ours. Adding playful activities to your cat's daily routine can diminish the occurrence of such nocturnal activity.

THINGS THAT MAKE YOU GO "EEK!": UNDERSTANDING YOUR SCAREDY CAT
Dogs are cats' most common natural predator in the wild. This is not to say, however, that cats and dogs cannot live amicably together in your home! Cats also may be afraid of other cats, of humans (if not properly socialized), and loud noises such as thunder, automobiles, and lawn mowers. Fearful cats generally have dilated pupils, flattened ears, a flattened or crouched body, and a fast breathing rate. If threatened further, they may hiss or growl, arch their back and puff up their fur, and may even attack.

Cats try to hide when they are anxious or feel threatened. They especially like to hide in high places, which permit a clear view of their surroundings. This is why it is especially important to provide indoor cats with hiding areas; these spots must permit the cat to feel safe from people, loud noises and other animals. If it is not safe for your cat to hide on top of the refrigerator...etc. then you will need to provide some other high location for your cat to hide in, such as a climbing tower or closet shelf.

COMMUNICATION
Cats are not as social as many other species and they do not communicate in the same ways we do. Contrary to what people believe, cats primarily rely on smell, not sight, to communicate with other cats, locate food, and detect predators. Cats communicate by "marking" objects and other animals. these marks are scents (called pheromones) released from special glands located in their forehead, cheeks, tail base, and paws when they scratch and rub their body on objects.

Cats also do not rely too much on sounds from other cats, so they do not pay particular attention to the verbal sounds we humans make. Allowing your cats to mark scratching posts and other appropriate objects in the home will reduce the temptation for them to mark using urine. It is important that indoor cats have enough litter in a clean litter box to hide urine scents after covering. In the wild, cats urinate in new clean spots all the time; if we want them to use the same spot each time, we have to keep it clean!

IS IT HOT IN HERE OR IS IT JUST ME?
Outdoor cats experience a wide range of temperatures. Since cats cannot sweat very well, they learn to seek shade in warm temperatures, and warmth in cold temperatures. Indoor cats use shade, fans, bedding, and blankets to regulate their temperatures throughout the year.

TO GROOM OR NOT TO GROOM, THAT IS THE QUESTION
Most cats are so good at grooming themselves that they do not need baths to stay clean. Long haired (if the hair mats), obese, or sick cats may need extra combing and brushing. While cats in the wild do not have this luxury, you can help your cat stay healthy and clean if he struggles to do it for himself.

KITTY CARE BASICS

Looking after your precocious feline can present some challenges. But with a little understanding and patience you can help your kitty be the best he or she can be! Here are just a few basic Cat Care Concepts to get the ball rolling!

TRAINING
The MOST IMPORTANT fact for cat owners to understand is that cats DO NOT respond to force, and that they DO respond to praise! Reprimands only work if you catch your cat "in the act". Punishment that follows an action by more than a few seconds won't stop him from doing it again, and may even cause him to be afraid of you or the surroundings.

If you do catch you cat making a mistake, it is better for both of you to create a distraction by making a loud noise or throwing something (NOT at the cat!) that will attract its attention, but not toward you.

LIVING SPACE
Provide a room or other space she can call her own, complete with food and water, a bed (a cat carrier with a soft pad inside is a good choice), a litter box, a scratching/climbing post, a window to look out of, and some toys.

Place food and the litter boxes away from appliances and air ducts that could come on unexpectedly, and locate them such that another animal (or human!) cannot sneak up on the cat while she uses them. To keep them appealing to the cat, food and water should be fresh, and the litter box "scooped" every day.

SCRATCHING POSTS
Give your kitty something to scratch on to ensure that he or she can "do their thing" without damaging your things! Praise your kitty profusely when you see them use it to let them know that this is theirs to use. (keep reading to learn more about the benefits of scratching posts and how to choose the right one for your curious kitty!)

PERCHES
Provide places to climb and look out of windows to help keep your indoor cat(s) healthy and happy.

CONSISTENCY IS KEY!
Cats seem to prefer to feel like they are "in control" of their surroundings, and to choose the changes they want to make. When you make changes (food, litter, toys, etc.), offer them in a separate container next to the familiar one so your cat can decide whether or not to change.

HEALTH AND WELLNESS
Be sure to see your veterinarian regularly. In addition to providing preventative health care through regular check-ups, they also can help you troubleshoot any "issues" before they become problems.

GETTING DOWN TO THE NITTY GRITTY
Now that we have the basics covered (kitty 101 as I like to call it) we can move on to some more advanced Cat Care Concepts to help you and your feline friend live happily ever after!

A NICE PLACE TO REST SOME WEARY PAWS: CAT BEDS EXPLORED
Cats are at their most vulnerable while sleeping, so they prefer to rest in an areas where they feel safe and secure. Desirable resting areas typically are quiet, comfortable locations where the cat can escape from other members of the family. Your cat may choose to get out of the way by resting on top of the kitchen cupboards or under the bed, or she may like to sleep curled up in her cat tree or on your bed or sofa.

Owners who prefer the cat to stay off of the bed and other furniture can encourage the cat to rest elsewhere by providing a refuge in a quiet part of the house. A refuge is a less-traveled or out-of-the-way area of the home where the cat has access to all of the necessities; a bed, food, water, a litter box, a scratching post, perch, and toys. Cat beds can be purchased, but snug blankets and towels are just as appealing to cats and are easy to wash. The refuge should be a place where your cat feels safe and comfortable, for example a bedroom or back room. Your cat can retreat to her refuge when she wants to rest.

Wherever your cat chooses to rest it is important not to disturb her. Just as you may not want to be bothered while you are asleep or resting, neither does your cat. Respect your cat's privacy when she is resting and she will be more likely to seek you out when she is ready to interact.

SCRITCHIN' AND SCRATCHIN' -- CHOOSING A SCRATCING POST
Scratching is a natural behavior for cats. Cats scratch to stretch their muscles, shed old cuticle, sharpen their claws, and leave scent marks. Even if declawed, cats retain the instinct to scratch. Scratching posts provide cats with an outlet for their instinct to scratch while at the same time saving your furniture and carpets! In order to choose the right scratching post for your cat, consider the following:

What does your cat like to scratch?
Choose a scratching post that is similar to the material your cat most likes to scratch. Most, but not all, cats prefer scratching posts made out of rough material they can shred. Sisal scratching posts are ideal because they are satisfying to scratch and tough enough to stand up to repeated use. Vertical or upright and horizontal or flat scratching posts are available in a variety of sizes and materials including sisal (a coarse natural fiber), carpet and cardboard. Cats that scratch chair legs or the corners of your couch may prefer a vertical scratching post. Make sure that vertical scratching posts are tall enough so that your cat can stretch up to scratch. Cats that scratch rugs and carpets may prefer a horizontal scratching post or mat. Scratching posts should be stabilized to ensure that they don't move or tip over and scare your cat while she is using them.

Where does your cat scratch?
Cats scratch to leave scent marks that define their territory and tell other cats they have passed through. They will often scratch prominent objects near sleeping areas and room entrances. Therefore, scratching posts should be located in these and other "public" parts of the house that the whole family uses. In multi-cat households there should be several scratching posts, both vertical and horizontal, located throughout the house. These posts should be placed in areas where the cats congregate and along their routes to common areas such as food and water bowls, and litter boxes. Setting up multiple scratching posts provides the cats with an acceptable place to leave their mark without ruining furniture and carpets.

What if my cat won't use the scratching post?
Considering your cat's demonstrated preferences, substitute similar objects for her to scratch. Place the scratching post near the object you want the cat to stop scratching. Cover the inappropriate objects with something your cat will find unappealing, such as double sided sticky tape, aluminum foil, sheets of sandpaper or a plastic carpet runner with the pointy side up. You may give the objects an objectionable odor by attaching cotton balls soaked with a citrus scent or perfume. Don't use anything that could harm the cat if she ingests it and be careful with strong odors because you don't want the nearby acceptable objects to also smell unpleasant.
When your cat is consistently using the scratching post, it can be moved very gradually (no more than three inches each day) to a location more suitable to you. It's best, however, to keep the scratching post as close to your cat's preferred scratching locations as possible.

WHEN SCRATCHING ISN'T QUITE DOING THE JOB: TRIMMING YOUR KITTY'S NAILS
Nail trims are an easy, and often overlooked, way to reduce damage from scratching. You can clip off the sharp tips of your cat's claws about once a week. There are several types of nail trimmers designed especially for cats. These are better than your own nail clipper because they won't crush the nail bed.

Before trimming your cat's claws, accustom her to having her paws handled and squeezed. You can do this by gently petting her legs and paws while giving her a treat. This will help to make it a more pleasant experience. Gradually increase the pressure so that petting becomes gentle squeezing, as you'll need to do this to extend the claw. Continue with the treats until your cat tolerates having her feet handled.

When she is ready, apply a small amount of pressure to the cat's paw, with your thumb on top of her paw and your index finger underneath, until a claw is extended. Near the cat's nail bed you should be able to see a pink area, called the "quick", which is a small blood vessel. Don't cut into the pink portion of the nail because it will bleed and be painful for the cat. Cut off just the sharp tip of the claw to dull the claw.

Go slowly with your cat or she may become fearful of having her nails trimmed. To begin with, trim just one foot each day. As your cat becomes accustomed to having her nails clipped you can trim all four feet at the same time.
If you prefer not to trim your cat's nails, you can purchase soft plastic caps that fit over the nail. Nail caps are available under the brand name Soft Paws and are available in a variety of sizes and colors.

NUMBER ONE AND NUMBER TWO: THE INS AND OUTS OF LITTERBOXES
Cats eliminate to fulfill a fundamental need. They also use eliminations as a way to mark their territory. Indoor cats consider your home their territory. You can help ensure that your cat doesn't feel the need to use eliminations to announce that your home is her territory by providing an attractive litter box. The goal is to provide your cat with a positive experience when using the litter box. Positive experiences encourage the cat to continue using the litter boxes we supply. Cats tend to avoid things that they associate with a negative experience. If your cat has a negative experience while using the litter box, for example the litter is dirty or something startles her, the cat most likely will avoid that box in the future.

There are four basic things to consider when setting up a litter box:

Litter Box Hygiene
Cats are fastidiously clean. Most cats will avoid using a dirty litter box in favor of a cleaner place. That "cleaner place" may turn out to be your carpet, bed, or sofa. To prevent house-soiling the litter box must be scooped daily and washed weekly with mild dish detergent.

Litter Box Type and Size
Litter boxes are available in a variety of sizes and shapes. Cats generally prefer large, uncovered litter boxes. Uncovered boxes are more easily accessible to your cat. Larger boxes are better because they can provide more room for your cat to move around. As a rule the litter box should be large enough for your cat to stand up (on all fours) and turn around in.

Boxes with high sides or rims around the top may be appropriate for cats that tend to scatter litter over the side while digging. Low sided boxes are appropriate for small kittens and older cats that have trouble getting in and out of the litter box.

Covered litter boxes are also available. Owners may use covered boxes to keep their dog out of the cat litter or to keep litter "out of sight". Some cats may prefer covered litter boxes because of the added privacy they provide. Remember that covered litter boxes will concentrate odors more than uncovered boxes. Your cat may refuse to use a covered box if it is not kept very clean.

Litter Substrate
There are many different substrates or litters on the market. Research has shown that most cats prefer fine-grained, unscented litters. Scoopable litters usually have finer grains than typical clay litter and have the added advantage of being easy to keep clean on a daily basis. Many cats are put off by the odor of scented or deodorant litters. This is also a good reason not to place room deodorizers or air fresheners near the litter box. Odor should not be a problem if the litter box is kept clean. If you find the odor offensive, the cat will also find it offensive and may not want to eliminate there. Remember, litter boxes should be scooped at least once a day and washed once a week with mild dish detergent.

Once you find a litter that your cat likes, don't change types or brands or the cat may refuse to use the litter box. If you need to make a change the cat should be offered the new litter in a litter box placed next to the old box and litter. This allows the cat to decide if she wants to use the new litter. Fill boxes with enough litter to permit the cat to scratch and bury waste (usually about 2 inches deep).

Litter Box Location and Number
Cats need quiet and privacy when using their litter box. Litter boxes should be placed away from appliances or air ducts that could suddenly come on and startle the cat. They also should be placed so that humans and other animals can't "sneak up" on the cat.

The litter box must be easily accessible. Don't place the litter box in "tight-spots" such as under vanity sinks or low tables. Remember, the cat needs to be able to stand and move around comfortably in the litter box. Consider the path the cat will take to reach the litter box. Don't place it so that she has to climb over furniture or other animals to use it. For example, a litter box that is placed near the dog's bed or behind the couch may not get much use.

The Golden Rule is "one litter box per cat, plus one". Problems such as urine spraying can be prevented or reduced by providing multiple litter boxes. Each cat requires a place to eliminate and mark territory. In homes with more than one story, litter boxes must be available on each level of the home. Cats don't like to walk far to get to the nearest litter box. If there are litter boxes on each level of the home, there is less likely to be a problem with laziness.

"WHY I LIKE MY TOYS"
(an essay on the importance of playtime and toys as told by a member of the cat clan)

"My ancestors had to hunt insects, birds, mice and other small animals to survive. Since they had to catch 10 or 20 of these morsels every day, they had to be ready to pounce at a moments notice. I don't have to hunt anymore, but I still like to pounce. Having things to stalk and pounce on also makes me happy, and helps keep me healthy and active.

There are many different kinds of toys; you could buy me some of these, or make some yourself. Because of my heritage, I like toys that do something. Toys that squeak, chirp, jitter, swing or vibrate remind me of moving meals, enticing me to interact with it. The first toy you might try is a furry mouse that makes noise and moves. Some even have catnip in them! You can just roll it past me on the floor to catch my attention; I'll let you know if it looks like lunch. Since we're each individuals, some of us like some toys better than others. Just offer us a few and we'll show you what we like!

I also like toys such as a wand or stick with a toy dangling from the end of a string.

They make me feel like I'm using my natural quickness and agility to catch something, and they let me interact with you. Just let the toy dangle in front me, then slowly drag it away. Sometimes I can get carried away attacking it, so please be sure I can't bite or chew off a piece I could choke on.

Balls are another great item to use, because they let me "chase and capture". I am very good at swatting balls. Things that move on their own also fascinate me, so balls (like ping pong balls) and furry little mice toys that move are great.

I also like toys I can catch, pick up, and toss in the air so I can catch them again. These are excellent to pass the time while you are away. You can fill balls with food or treats to encourage me to play - I feel like I am having a hunting and stalking session, and catching my own meal.

There isn't a set number of toys I need, but I need variety to keep from getting bored with the toys. I'm like one of the kids; I like to have a batch of toys that can be rotated a few at a time to keep me interested. You can rotate them in different sequences to make the old toys seem new and exciting. Without this, I'll just get bored, sleep twenty-three hours a day, and maybe get fat. Sometimes I might love a toy so much that I may start sleeping next to it. When I do this I'm telling you I'd like to keep it, and please don't include it in the rotation.

I also enjoy playing with simple things like crumpled up paper balls, the plastic rings off of milk jugs, the center rolls from toilet paper, cotton-tipped swabs, paper towels, lots of things. You can even stuff old cotton socks with cotton balls and a little catnip, then tie a knot in the end. I need an assortment of toys I can roll, pounce on, capture and sink my teeth into, carry and chase. As long as it is safe for me, please let me play with it.

Also because of my hunting heritage, I like visual stimulation. If I don't have (or can't get to) a window to look out of, you could buy or make me a videotape from a nature show that has live action. I especially like to watch birds, fish, rodents and insects. These videos are great once in awhile when you can't be around to play with me."

PLAYTIME = FUN TIME!!

Why play with your cat?
To develop a bond with your cat.
To increase the quality of life of your cat.
To help improve behavior and health, reduce the incidence of obesity, and prevent future problems.
To make your cat active during the day so that he/she will sleep longer and bother you less during the night.
To help your cat vent excess energy, which should decrease the "wild frenzies" that often occur, especially in the late evenings.
To teach your cat to play in a controlled environment and decrease the likeliness that he/she will "play bite" or attack you or others.

Helpful hints to make playtime a fun success!
Do not reward bad behavior with play. Only elicit play when your cat is calm, quiet, and behaving appropriately.

Do not use your hands, fingers, or other body parts as toys, or kitty will learn to bite and scratch them. Stop play that gets too rough, and resume when your cat is calm, quiet, and behaving appropriately.

Set aside a specific time each day and make play time a part of your daily schedule. Your cat will be less anxious the rest of the day in anticipation of your special play time.

Ask family members to participate in the fun and share the responsibility of cat ownership.

Ideas for increasing your cat's activity
Teach your cat to play fetch. Attach a favorite toy to a line, throw the toy, and reel it back in as needed. Your cat may learn to bring the toy back to you because he/she is rewarded when you throw the toy again!

Attach a toy to a shoelace and drag it around the house. Don't forget to drag it onto high locations where your cat is allowed to climb. Many cats will chase it wherever it goes! A shoelace with a knot at the end also works, especially for those bug-lovers!

Help your cat push a ball around on a smooth surface, such as hard floors or in a bathtub.

Encourage your cat to run back and forth between you and another person by providing a reward when he/she reaches each of you. You can use a treat or a favorite toy as the reward, but don't forget to reward!

Throw a piece of dry cat food or a treat across the floor. Watch kitty chase it every time!

Hang a toy by a string from a doorknob or use a hanger on top of a doorway. Help make it interesting for your cat by giving it a shake to make it move.

Place a paper bag or cardboard box onto the floor. When your cat goes inside to explore, scratch the outside with your finger and he/she will try to catch you!

Hide a toy under a cushion or blanket. Make it move and entice your cat to dig for it.

Take advantage of any object your cat likes to play with by making it move!

Many cats will chase a laser pointer for hours. Make sure you do not point the laser in the eyes of any people or animals. You may consider discontinuing its use if your cat becomes anxious or paranoid about seeing the laser when it is not turned on.

If your cat is confident and easy-going, try playing hide-and-seek. Pretend to hide, and peek out frequently. Allow your cat to watch you sneak to closer hiding spots. Finally, come out of your final hiding spot and tickle your cat. If your cat enjoys the game, he/she will hide and then pursue you! Try not to startle your cat, and always finish the game with calm interaction.

Whatever toy or game your cat enjoys, try not to use up all of the fun at once. Resist the temptation to leave kitty's favorite toys out all day. Instead, leave a few toys out during the day, but only bring out the favorites once a day or even once a week. They will remain fun for much longer!

"SAFE TOYS"
There are many factors that contribute to the safety or danger of a toy. Many of those factors, however, are completely dependent upon your cat’s size, activity level and personal preference. Another factor to be considered is the environment in which your cat spends her time. Although we can’t guarantee your cat’s enthusiasm or her safety with any specific toy, we can offer the following guidelines.

BE CAUTIOUS
The things that are usually the most attractive to cats are often the very things that are the most dangerous. Cat-proof your home by checking for: string, ribbon, yarn, rubber bands, plastic milk jug rings, paper clips, pins, needles, and anything else that could be ingested. All of these items are dangerous, no matter how cute your cat may look when she’s playing with them.

Avoid or alter any toys that aren’t “cat-proof” by removing ribbons, feathers, strings, eyes, or other small parts that could be chewed and/or ingested.

Soft toys should be machine washable. Check labels for child safety, as a stuffed toy that’s labeled as safe for children under three years old, doesn’t contain dangerous fillings. Problem fillings include things like nutshells and polystyrene beads. Also, rigid toys are not as attractive to cats.

TOYS WE RECOMMEND

Active Toys:
Round plastic shower curtain rings are fun either as a single ring to bat around, hide or carry, or when linked together and hung in an enticing spot.

Plastic rolling balls, with or without bells inside.

Ping-Pong balls and plastic practice golf balls with holes, to help cats carry them. Try putting one in a dry bathtub, as the captive ball is much more fun than one that escapes under the sofa. You’ll probably want to remove the balls from the bathtub before bedtime, unless you can’t hear the action from your bedroom. Two o’clock in the morning seems to be a prime time for this game.

Paper bags with any handles removed. Paper bags are good for pouncing, hiding and interactive play. They’re also a great distraction if you need your cat to pay less attention to what you’re trying to accomplish. Plastic bags are not a good idea, as many cats like to chew and ingest the plastic.

Sisal-wrapped toys are very attractive to cats that tend to ignore soft toys.

Empty cardboard rolls from toilet paper and paper towels are ideal cat toys, especially if you “unwind” a little cardboard to get them started.

Catnip:
Catnip-filled soft toys are fun to kick, carry and rub.

Plain catnip can be crushed and sprinkled on the carpet, or on a towel placed on the floor if you want to be able to remove all traces. The catnip oils will stay in the carpet, and although they’re not visible to us, your cat will still be able to smell them.

Catnip sprays rarely have enough power to be attractive to cats.

Not all cats are attracted to catnip. Some cats may become over-stimulated to the point of aggressive play and others may be slightly sedated.

Kittens under six months old seem to be immune to catnip.

Catnip is not addictive and is perfectly safe for cats to roll in, rub in or eat.

Comfort Toys:
Soft stuffed animals are good for several purposes. For some cats, the stuffed animal should be small enough to carry around. For cats that want to “kill” the toy, the stuffed animal should be about the same size as the cat. Toys with legs and a tail seem to be even more attractive to cats.

Cardboard boxes, especially those a tiny bit too small for your cat to really fit into. Get The Most Out Of Toys!

Rotate your cat’s toys weekly by making only four or five toys available at a time. Keep a variety of types easily accessible. If your cat has a huge favorite, like a soft “baby” that she loves to cuddle with, you should probably leave that one out all the time, or risk the wrath of your cat!

Provide toys that offer a variety of uses - at least one toy to carry, one to “kill,” one to
roll and one to “baby.”

“Hide and Seek” is a fun game for cats to play. “Found” toys are often much more
attractive than a toy which is blatantly introduced.

A FINAL NOTE KEEPING YOUR KITTY HAPPY...
(an essay on the importance of catering to your cats curious nature as told by a member of the cat clan)

"I need to know what is going on around me. I am curious. I am a cat. I can hear sounds coming from outside and smell lots of strange things but I need to see what is happening out there. I want to know that I am safe. If I can hear and smell but can't see it, it might frighten me.

I need something that allows me to elevate myself from ground level. I like to climb. A perch will provide me with a safe and private place to watch the action from above. A perch is anything that allows me to lie, sit, sleep or look outside from above A perch is a must have for me. Perches come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. You can get perches that attach to the windowsill, or you could custom build a perch for me. I would like more than one perch so I can look outside at different angles.

You can place a couch, sofa, chair, or sturdy table in front of a window, so I can look outside. To make the scenery more attractive for me, you could hang a bird feeder in the yard, plant pretty flowers to attract bees, butterflies, and other insects. This will keep me interested. I may sit on my perch for hours and look outside.

I may feel safer if I can sleep somewhere high. So please provide me with places to climb up on that I feel safe and where no other animal or human could sneak up on me. If you are having a problem with finding a suitable area for a perch, watch me and I will show you where I feel comfortable, usually by curling up in a ball and falling asleep. If you prefer that I use a different area than I chose, you will need to offer me treats and kind words as you place me in the area you would like for me to use. Entice me. Make this area more enticing. If I refuse to stay there, then allow me to approach it on my own. Put my favorite treat or toy on the perch so I will investigate. I may just use the couch, the end table, on top of the dresser to make my own perch. Please consider this, when rearranging the furniture, or moving. Can I still see outside?"