SVHNews - Smith Veterinary Hospital's Newsletter

There is undoubtedly something special about cats. They exude an air of mystery and they have a personality all their own. Whether it is their unique purr or their clever antics, something about the little critters seems to climb right into your heart! But when it comes to understanding your curious kitty things can get a little tricky which is why this month's SVHNews is spot lighting our favorite Feline Friends and finding out what makes them tick!

In contrast cats are solitary hunters of small prey. This strategy resulted in important differences in cat behavior, which has been carefully studied. We can use our understanding of cat behavior to improve the environment of the indoor cats that share our lives.

NOCTURNAL CREATURES?
Cats do not have the daily sleep-wake cycle that we and many other animals have. Rather, they sleep and wake frequently throughout the day and night. This is because cats in the wild need to hunt as many as 20 small prey each day; they must be able to rest between each hunt so they are ready to pounce quickly when prey approaches. This explains why our cats seem to sleep so much during the day when we are awake, and spend so much time awake at night when we need to sleep! We may conclude that cats are nocturnal creatures, but it only seems that way because their sleep/wake cycle is so different from ours. Adding playful activities to your cat's daily routine can diminish the occurrence of such nocturnal activity.

THINGS THAT MAKE YOU GO "EEK!": UNDERSTANDING YOUR SCAREDY CAT
Dogs are cats' most common natural predator in the wild. This is not to say, however, that cats and dogs cannot live amicably together in your home! Cats also may be afraid of other cats, of humans (if not properly socialized), and loud noises such as thunder, automobiles, and lawn mowers. Fearful cats generally have dilated pupils, flattened ears, a flattened or crouched body, and a fast breathing rate. If threatened further, they may hiss or growl, arch their back and puff up their fur, and may even attack.

Cats try to hide when they are anxious or feel threatened. They especially like to hide in high places, which permit a clear view of their surroundings. This is why it is especially important to provide indoor cats with hiding areas; these spots must permit the cat to feel safe from people, loud noises and other animals. If it is not safe for your cat to hide on top of the refrigerator...etc. then you will need to provide some other high location for your cat to hide in, such as a climbing tower or closet shelf.

COMMUNICATION
Cats are not as social as many other species and they do not communicate in the same ways we do. Contrary to what people believe, cats primarily rely on smell, not sight, to communicate with other cats, locate food, and detect predators. Cats communicate by "marking" objects and other animals. these marks are scents (called pheromones) released from special glands located in their forehead, cheeks, tail base, and paws when they scratch and rub their body on objects.

Cats also do not rely too much on sounds from other cats, so they do not pay particular attention to the verbal sounds we humans make. Allowing your cats to mark scratching posts and other appropriate objects in the home will reduce the temptation for them to mark using urine. It is important that indoor cats have enough litter in a clean litter box to hide urine scents after covering. In the wild, cats urinate in new clean spots all the time; if we want them to use the same spot each time, we have to keep it clean!

IS IT HOT IN HERE OR IS IT JUST ME?
Outdoor cats experience a wide range of temperatures. Since cats cannot sweat very well, they learn to seek shade in warm temperatures, and warmth in cold temperatures. Indoor cats use shade, fans, bedding, and blankets to regulate their temperatures throughout the year.

TO GROOM OR NOT TO GROOM, THAT IS THE QUESTION
Most cats are so good at grooming themselves that they do not need baths to stay clean. Long haired (if the hair mats), obese, or sick cats may need extra combing and brushing. While cats in the wild do not have this luxury, you can help your cat stay healthy and clean if he struggles to do it for himself.

KITTY CARE BASICS

Looking after your precocious feline can present some challenges. But with a little understanding and patience you can help your kitty be the best he or she can be! Here are just a few basic Cat Care Concepts to get the ball rolling!

TRAINING
The MOST IMPORTANT fact for cat owners to understand is that cats DO NOT respond to force, and that they DO respond to praise! Reprimands only work if you catch your cat "in the act". Punishment that follows an action by more than a few seconds won't stop him from doing it again, and may even cause him to be afraid of you or the surroundings.

If you do catch you cat making a mistake, it is better for both of you to create a distraction by making a loud noise or throwing something (NOT at the cat!) that will attract its attention, but not toward you.

LIVING SPACE
Provide a room or other space she can call her own, complete with food and water, a bed (a cat carrier with a soft pad inside is a good choice), a litter box, a scratching/climbing post, a window to look out of, and some toys.

Place food and the litter boxes away from appliances and air ducts that could come on unexpectedly, and locate them such that another animal (or human!) cannot sneak up on the cat while she uses them. To keep them appealing to the cat, food and water should be fresh, and the litter box "scooped" every day.

SCRATCHING POSTS
Give your kitty something to scratch on to ensure that he or she can "do their thing" without damaging your things! Praise your kitty profusely when you see them use it to let them know that this is theirs to use. (keep reading to learn more about the benefits of scratching posts and how to choose the right one for your curious kitty!)

PERCHES
Provide places to climb and look out of windows to help keep your indoor cat(s) healthy and happy.

CONSISTENCY IS KEY!
Cats seem to prefer to feel like they are "in control" of their surroundings, and to choose the changes they want to make. When you make changes (food, litter, toys, etc.), offer them in a separate container next to the familiar one so your cat can decide whether or not to change.

HEALTH AND WELLNESS
Be sure to see your veterinarian regularly. In addition to providing preventative health care through regular check-ups, they also can help you troubleshoot any "issues" before they become problems.

GETTING DOWN TO THE NITTY GRITTY
Now that we have the basics covered (kitty 101 as I like to call it) we can move on to some more advanced Cat Care Concepts to help you and your feline friend live happily ever after!

A NICE PLACE TO REST SOME WEARY PAWS: CAT BEDS EXPLORED
Cats are at their most vulnerable while sleeping, so they prefer to rest in an areas where they feel safe and secure. Desirable resting areas typically are quiet, comfortable locations where the cat can escape from other members of the family. Your cat may choose to get out of the way by resting on top of the kitchen cupboards or under the bed, or she may like to sleep curled up in her cat tree or on your bed or sofa.

Owners who prefer the cat to stay off of the bed and other furniture can encourage the cat to rest elsewhere by providing a refuge in a quiet part of the house. A refuge is a less-traveled or out-of-the-way area of the home where the cat has access to all of the necessities; a bed, food, water, a litter box, a scratching post, perch, and toys. Cat beds can be purchased, but snug blankets and towels are just as appealing to cats and are easy to wash. The refuge should be a place where your cat feels safe and comfortable, for example a bedroom or back room. Your cat can retreat to her refuge when she wants to rest.

Wherever your cat chooses to rest it is important not to disturb her. Just as you may not want to be bothered while you are asleep or resting, neither does your cat. Respect your cat's privacy when she is resting and she will be more likely to seek you out when she is ready to interact.

SCRITCHIN' AND SCRATCHIN' -- CHOOSING A SCRATCING POST
Scratching is a natural behavior for cats. Cats scratch to stretch their muscles, shed old cuticle, sharpen their claws, and leave scent marks. Even if declawed, cats retain the instinct to scratch. Scratching posts provide cats with an outlet for their instinct to scratch while at the same time saving your furniture and carpets! In order to choose the right scratching post for your cat, consider the following:

What does your cat like to scratch?
Choose a scratching post that is similar to the material your cat most likes to scratch. Most, but not all, cats prefer scratching posts made out of rough material they can shred. Sisal scratching posts are ideal because they are satisfying to scratch and tough enough to stand up to repeated use. Vertical or upright and horizontal or flat scratching posts are available in a variety of sizes and materials including sisal (a coarse natural fiber), carpet and cardboard. Cats that scratch chair legs or the corners of your couch may prefer a vertical scratching post. Make sure that vertical scratching posts are tall enough so that your cat can stretch up to scratch. Cats that scratch rugs and carpets may prefer a horizontal scratching post or mat. Scratching posts should be stabilized to ensure that they don't move or tip over and scare your cat while she is using them.

Where does your cat scratch?
Cats scratch to leave scent marks that define their territory and tell other cats they have passed through. They will often scratch prominent objects near sleeping areas and room entrances. Therefore, scratching posts should be located in these and other "public" parts of the house that the whole family uses. In multi-cat households there should be several scratching posts, both vertical and horizontal, located throughout the house. These posts should be placed in areas where the cats congregate and along their routes to common areas such as food and water bowls, and litter boxes. Setting up multiple scratching posts provides the cats with an acceptable place to leave their mark without ruining furniture and carpets.

What if my cat won't use the scratching post?
Considering your cat's demonstrated preferences, substitute similar objects for her to scratch. Place the scratching post near the object you want the cat to stop scratching. Cover the inappropriate objects with something your cat will find unappealing, such as double sided sticky tape, aluminum foil, sheets of sandpaper or a plastic carpet runner with the pointy side up. You may give the objects an objectionable odor by attaching cotton balls soaked with a citrus scent or perfume. Don't use anything that could harm the cat if she ingests it and be careful with strong odors because you don't want the nearby acceptable objects to also smell unpleasant.
When your cat is consistently using the scratching post, it can be moved very gradually (no more than three inches each day) to a location more suitable to you. It's best, however, to keep the scratching post as close to your cat's preferred scratching locations as possible.

WHEN SCRATCHING ISN'T QUITE DOING THE JOB: TRIMMING YOUR KITTY'S NAILS
Nail trims are an easy, and often overlooked, way to reduce damage from scratching. You can clip off the sharp tips of your cat's claws about once a week. There are several types of nail trimmers designed especially for cats. These are better than your own nail clipper because they won't crush the nail bed.

Before trimming your cat's claws, accustom her to having her paws handled and squeezed. You can do this by gently petting her legs and paws while giving her a treat. This will help to make it a more pleasant experience. Gradually increase the pressure so that petting becomes gentle squeezing, as you'll need to do this to extend the claw. Continue with the treats until your cat tolerates having her feet handled.

When she is ready, apply a small amount of pressure to the cat's paw, with your thumb on top of her paw and your index finger underneath, until a claw is extended. Near the cat's nail bed you should be able to see a pink area, called the "quick", which is a small blood vessel. Don't cut into the pink portion of the nail because it will bleed and be painful for the cat. Cut off just the sharp tip of the claw to dull the claw.

Go slowly with your cat or she may become fearful of having her nails trimmed. To begin with, trim just one foot each day. As your cat becomes accustomed to having her nails clipped you can trim all four feet at the same time.
If you prefer not to trim your cat's nails, you can purchase soft plastic caps that fit over the nail. Nail caps are available under the brand name Soft Paws and are available in a variety of sizes and colors.

NUMBER ONE AND NUMBER TWO: THE INS AND OUTS OF LITTERBOXES
Cats eliminate to fulfill a fundamental need. They also use eliminations as a way to mark their territory. Indoor cats consider your home their territory. You can help ensure that your cat doesn't feel the need to use eliminations to announce that your home is her territory by providing an attractive litter box. The goal is to provide your cat with a positive experience when using the litter box. Positive experiences encourage the cat to continue using the litter boxes we supply. Cats tend to avoid things that they associate with a negative experience. If your cat has a negative experience while using the litter box, for example the litter is dirty or something startles her, the cat most likely will avoid that box in the future.

There are four basic things to consider when setting up a litter box:

Litter Box Hygiene
Cats are fastidiously clean. Most cats will avoid using a dirty litter box in favor of a cleaner place. That "cleaner place" may turn out to be your carpet, bed, or sofa. To prevent house-soiling the litter box must be scooped daily and washed weekly with mild dish detergent.

Litter Box Type and Size
Litter boxes are available in a variety of sizes and shapes. Cats generally prefer large, uncovered litter boxes. Uncovered boxes are more easily accessible to your cat. Larger boxes are better because they can provide more room for your cat to move around. As a rule the litter box should be large enough for your cat to stand up (on all fours) and turn around in.

Boxes with high sides or rims around the top may be appropriate for cats that tend to scatter litter over the side while digging. Low sided boxes are appropriate for small kittens and older cats that have trouble getting in and out of the litter box.

Covered litter boxes are also available. Owners may use covered boxes to keep their dog out of the cat litter or to keep litter "out of sight". Some cats may prefer covered litter boxes because of the added privacy they provide. Remember that covered litter boxes will concentrate odors more than uncovered boxes. Your cat may refuse to use a covered box if it is not kept very clean.

Litter Substrate
There are many different substrates or litters on the market. Research has shown that most cats prefer fine-grained, unscented litters. Scoopable litters usually have finer grains than typical clay litter and have the added advantage of being easy to keep clean on a daily basis. Many cats are put off by the odor of scented or deodorant litters. This is also a good reason not to place room deodorizers or air fresheners near the litter box. Odor should not be a problem if the litter box is kept clean. If you find the odor offensive, the cat will also find it offensive and may not want to eliminate there. Remember, litter boxes should be scooped at least once a day and washed once a week with mild dish detergent.

Once you find a litter that your cat likes, don't change types or brands or the cat may refuse to use the litter box. If you need to make a change the cat should be offered the new litter in a litter box placed next to the old box and litter. This allows the cat to decide if she wants to use the new litter. Fill boxes with enough litter to permit the cat to scratch and bury waste (usually about 2 inches deep).

Litter Box Location and Number
Cats need quiet and privacy when using their litter box. Litter boxes should be placed away from appliances or air ducts that could suddenly come on and startle the cat. They also should be placed so that humans and other animals can't "sneak up" on the cat.

The litter box must be easily accessible. Don't place the litter box in "tight-spots" such as under vanity sinks or low tables. Remember, the cat needs to be able to stand and move around comfortably in the litter box. Consider the path the cat will take to reach the litter box. Don't place it so that she has to climb over furniture or other animals to use it. For example, a litter box that is placed near the dog's bed or behind the couch may not get much use.

The Golden Rule is "one litter box per cat, plus one". Problems such as urine spraying can be prevented or reduced by providing multiple litter boxes. Each cat requires a place to eliminate and mark territory. In homes with more than one story, litter boxes must be available on each level of the home. Cats don't like to walk far to get to the nearest litter box. If there are litter boxes on each level of the home, there is less likely to be a problem with laziness.

"WHY I LIKE MY TOYS"
(an essay on the importance of playtime and toys as told by a member of the cat clan)

"My ancestors had to hunt insects, birds, mice and other small animals to survive. Since they had to catch 10 or 20 of these morsels every day, they had to be ready to pounce at a moments notice. I don't have to hunt anymore, but I still like to pounce. Having things to stalk and pounce on also makes me happy, and helps keep me healthy and active.

There are many different kinds of toys; you could buy me some of these, or make some yourself. Because of my heritage, I like toys that do something. Toys that squeak, chirp, jitter, swing or vibrate remind me of moving meals, enticing me to interact with it. The first toy you might try is a furry mouse that makes noise and moves. Some even have catnip in them! You can just roll it past me on the floor to catch my attention; I'll let you know if it looks like lunch. Since we're each individuals, some of us like some toys better than others. Just offer us a few and we'll show you what we like!

I also like toys such as a wand or stick with a toy dangling from the end of a string.

They make me feel like I'm using my natural quickness and agility to catch something, and they let me interact with you. Just let the toy dangle in front me, then slowly drag it away. Sometimes I can get carried away attacking it, so please be sure I can't bite or chew off a piece I could choke on.

Balls are another great item to use, because they let me "chase and capture". I am very good at swatting balls. Things that move on their own also fascinate me, so balls (like ping pong balls) and furry little mice toys that move are great.

I also like toys I can catch, pick up, and toss in the air so I can catch them again. These are excellent to pass the time while you are away. You can fill balls with food or treats to encourage me to play - I feel like I am having a hunting and stalking session, and catching my own meal.

There isn't a set number of toys I need, but I need variety to keep from getting bored with the toys. I'm like one of the kids; I like to have a batch of toys that can be rotated a few at a time to keep me interested. You can rotate them in different sequences to make the old toys seem new and exciting. Without this, I'll just get bored, sleep twenty-three hours a day, and maybe get fat. Sometimes I might love a toy so much that I may start sleeping next to it. When I do this I'm telling you I'd like to keep it, and please don't include it in the rotation.

I also enjoy playing with simple things like crumpled up paper balls, the plastic rings off of milk jugs, the center rolls from toilet paper, cotton-tipped swabs, paper towels, lots of things. You can even stuff old cotton socks with cotton balls and a little catnip, then tie a knot in the end. I need an assortment of toys I can roll, pounce on, capture and sink my teeth into, carry and chase. As long as it is safe for me, please let me play with it.

Also because of my hunting heritage, I like visual stimulation. If I don't have (or can't get to) a window to look out of, you could buy or make me a videotape from a nature show that has live action. I especially like to watch birds, fish, rodents and insects. These videos are great once in awhile when you can't be around to play with me."

PLAYTIME = FUN TIME!!

Why play with your cat?
To develop a bond with your cat.
To increase the quality of life of your cat.
To help improve behavior and health, reduce the incidence of obesity, and prevent future problems.
To make your cat active during the day so that he/she will sleep longer and bother you less during the night.
To help your cat vent excess energy, which should decrease the "wild frenzies" that often occur, especially in the late evenings.
To teach your cat to play in a controlled environment and decrease the likeliness that he/she will "play bite" or attack you or others.

Helpful hints to make playtime a fun success!
Do not reward bad behavior with play. Only elicit play when your cat is calm, quiet, and behaving appropriately.

Do not use your hands, fingers, or other body parts as toys, or kitty will learn to bite and scratch them. Stop play that gets too rough, and resume when your cat is calm, quiet, and behaving appropriately.

Set aside a specific time each day and make play time a part of your daily schedule. Your cat will be less anxious the rest of the day in anticipation of your special play time.

Ask family members to participate in the fun and share the responsibility of cat ownership.

Ideas for increasing your cat's activity
Teach your cat to play fetch. Attach a favorite toy to a line, throw the toy, and reel it back in as needed. Your cat may learn to bring the toy back to you because he/she is rewarded when you throw the toy again!

Attach a toy to a shoelace and drag it around the house. Don't forget to drag it onto high locations where your cat is allowed to climb. Many cats will chase it wherever it goes! A shoelace with a knot at the end also works, especially for those bug-lovers!

Help your cat push a ball around on a smooth surface, such as hard floors or in a bathtub.

Encourage your cat to run back and forth between you and another person by providing a reward when he/she reaches each of you. You can use a treat or a favorite toy as the reward, but don't forget to reward!

Throw a piece of dry cat food or a treat across the floor. Watch kitty chase it every time!

Hang a toy by a string from a doorknob or use a hanger on top of a doorway. Help make it interesting for your cat by giving it a shake to make it move.

Place a paper bag or cardboard box onto the floor. When your cat goes inside to explore, scratch the outside with your finger and he/she will try to catch you!

Hide a toy under a cushion or blanket. Make it move and entice your cat to dig for it.

Take advantage of any object your cat likes to play with by making it move!

Many cats will chase a laser pointer for hours. Make sure you do not point the laser in the eyes of any people or animals. You may consider discontinuing its use if your cat becomes anxious or paranoid about seeing the laser when it is not turned on.

If your cat is confident and easy-going, try playing hide-and-seek. Pretend to hide, and peek out frequently. Allow your cat to watch you sneak to closer hiding spots. Finally, come out of your final hiding spot and tickle your cat. If your cat enjoys the game, he/she will hide and then pursue you! Try not to startle your cat, and always finish the game with calm interaction.

Whatever toy or game your cat enjoys, try not to use up all of the fun at once. Resist the temptation to leave kitty's favorite toys out all day. Instead, leave a few toys out during the day, but only bring out the favorites once a day or even once a week. They will remain fun for much longer!

"SAFE TOYS"
There are many factors that contribute to the safety or danger of a toy. Many of those factors, however, are completely dependent upon your cat’s size, activity level and personal preference. Another factor to be considered is the environment in which your cat spends her time. Although we can’t guarantee your cat’s enthusiasm or her safety with any specific toy, we can offer the following guidelines.

BE CAUTIOUS
The things that are usually the most attractive to cats are often the very things that are the most dangerous. Cat-proof your home by checking for: string, ribbon, yarn, rubber bands, plastic milk jug rings, paper clips, pins, needles, and anything else that could be ingested. All of these items are dangerous, no matter how cute your cat may look when she’s playing with them.

Avoid or alter any toys that aren’t “cat-proof” by removing ribbons, feathers, strings, eyes, or other small parts that could be chewed and/or ingested.

Soft toys should be machine washable. Check labels for child safety, as a stuffed toy that’s labeled as safe for children under three years old, doesn’t contain dangerous fillings. Problem fillings include things like nutshells and polystyrene beads. Also, rigid toys are not as attractive to cats.

TOYS WE RECOMMEND

Active Toys:
Round plastic shower curtain rings are fun either as a single ring to bat around, hide or carry, or when linked together and hung in an enticing spot.

Plastic rolling balls, with or without bells inside.

Ping-Pong balls and plastic practice golf balls with holes, to help cats carry them. Try putting one in a dry bathtub, as the captive ball is much more fun than one that escapes under the sofa. You’ll probably want to remove the balls from the bathtub before bedtime, unless you can’t hear the action from your bedroom. Two o’clock in the morning seems to be a prime time for this game.

Paper bags with any handles removed. Paper bags are good for pouncing, hiding and interactive play. They’re also a great distraction if you need your cat to pay less attention to what you’re trying to accomplish. Plastic bags are not a good idea, as many cats like to chew and ingest the plastic.

Sisal-wrapped toys are very attractive to cats that tend to ignore soft toys.

Empty cardboard rolls from toilet paper and paper towels are ideal cat toys, especially if you “unwind” a little cardboard to get them started.

Catnip:
Catnip-filled soft toys are fun to kick, carry and rub.

Plain catnip can be crushed and sprinkled on the carpet, or on a towel placed on the floor if you want to be able to remove all traces. The catnip oils will stay in the carpet, and although they’re not visible to us, your cat will still be able to smell them.

Catnip sprays rarely have enough power to be attractive to cats.

Not all cats are attracted to catnip. Some cats may become over-stimulated to the point of aggressive play and others may be slightly sedated.

Kittens under six months old seem to be immune to catnip.

Catnip is not addictive and is perfectly safe for cats to roll in, rub in or eat.

Comfort Toys:
Soft stuffed animals are good for several purposes. For some cats, the stuffed animal should be small enough to carry around. For cats that want to “kill” the toy, the stuffed animal should be about the same size as the cat. Toys with legs and a tail seem to be even more attractive to cats.

Cardboard boxes, especially those a tiny bit too small for your cat to really fit into. Get The Most Out Of Toys!

Rotate your cat’s toys weekly by making only four or five toys available at a time. Keep a variety of types easily accessible. If your cat has a huge favorite, like a soft “baby” that she loves to cuddle with, you should probably leave that one out all the time, or risk the wrath of your cat!

Provide toys that offer a variety of uses - at least one toy to carry, one to “kill,” one to
roll and one to “baby.”

“Hide and Seek” is a fun game for cats to play. “Found” toys are often much more
attractive than a toy which is blatantly introduced.

A FINAL NOTE KEEPING YOUR KITTY HAPPY...
(an essay on the importance of catering to your cats curious nature as told by a member of the cat clan)

"I need to know what is going on around me. I am curious. I am a cat. I can hear sounds coming from outside and smell lots of strange things but I need to see what is happening out there. I want to know that I am safe. If I can hear and smell but can't see it, it might frighten me.

I need something that allows me to elevate myself from ground level. I like to climb. A perch will provide me with a safe and private place to watch the action from above. A perch is anything that allows me to lie, sit, sleep or look outside from above A perch is a must have for me. Perches come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. You can get perches that attach to the windowsill, or you could custom build a perch for me. I would like more than one perch so I can look outside at different angles.

You can place a couch, sofa, chair, or sturdy table in front of a window, so I can look outside. To make the scenery more attractive for me, you could hang a bird feeder in the yard, plant pretty flowers to attract bees, butterflies, and other insects. This will keep me interested. I may sit on my perch for hours and look outside.

I may feel safer if I can sleep somewhere high. So please provide me with places to climb up on that I feel safe and where no other animal or human could sneak up on me. If you are having a problem with finding a suitable area for a perch, watch me and I will show you where I feel comfortable, usually by curling up in a ball and falling asleep. If you prefer that I use a different area than I chose, you will need to offer me treats and kind words as you place me in the area you would like for me to use. Entice me. Make this area more enticing. If I refuse to stay there, then allow me to approach it on my own. Put my favorite treat or toy on the perch so I will investigate. I may just use the couch, the end table, on top of the dresser to make my own perch. Please consider this, when rearranging the furniture, or moving. Can I still see outside?"